We woke up on the edge of Provence, a region that Dan and I explored with Sandy and Alan several years ago. It’s our first time back. Seems we’ve inching our way toward cooking with olive oil and leaving butter behind.

In the last days of the Roman Empire, Arles was the capital of Roman Gaul and, surprise, surprise, boasts many Gallo-Roman ruins not the least of which is Les Arènes, an amphitheater that seated 20,000. The 1st century Antique Theater is not in use today but stood three stories tall and seated 10,000. Place de la République is now a bustling square but was once a Roman Circus (a large, open-air venue for public events like chariot races, games, and performances). The ruins of an impressive Roman bath are on display as well.

Our guide explained that Hollywood and Russel Crow got things a bit wrong by implying all gladiators were slaves forced to fight. She said it was actually a paying profession for some. The profession for both the enslaved and free carried a certain level of respect and all fights did not end in death. The wild beasts fought here were bears, boars, wolves, and bulls for the most part. Wild animals from this region, in other words, not lions and tigers shipped from Africa.

Amazingly the amphitheater remained relatively intact well after its original use was out of fashion and the Romans had moved on. In the mid- to late-1600s it was used as a fortification crammed with tiny homes and today it is used for bullfights (bull is killed), bull games (bull lives), and plays.

A medieval town eventually grew around these ancient venues. We enjoyed strolling down the narrow roads and peeking in the stylish shops, bakeries, and meat markets. Parts of the city are recognized by UNESCO so have changed minimally. A challenge in modern times but a delight to the tourists.

More recently the region became known for its beautiful scenery, light, and colors which would quite naturally attract artists. Although many have drifted in and out over the centuries the one most famous here is Van Gogh. During his 15-month stay Arles was an inspiration for many of his paintings including Starry Night Over the Rhône, The Night Café, Vase with Fifteen Sunflowers, and The Bedroom. It was here that he famously (and sadly) cut off part of his ear. We stopped at Le Café de Nuit made famous by his painting and L’Espace Van Gogh, the local hospital that treated the troubled painter. Before leaving the hospital grounds Hettie played Vincent by Don Mclean for us. I know the song but have to admit it never dawned on me that it was about van Gogh until she cued it up in this particular spot.

We thoroughly enjoyed our morning in town. It was followed by lunch on board and a quick walk back to town to shop in Monoprix for red rice and salt, both local products. Watch out gift recipients!