This small village of Le Petit Andely sits at the bend of the river with its imposing castle ruin, Château Gaillard, dominating the landscape from its perch 300 feet above the water. Remember all that back and forth between England and France I mentioned earlier? Well, this castle, built by England’s Richard the Lionheart in 1196, is a testament to England’s being back in the game 100+ years after the Battle of Hastings. Not for long, but that’s another story.

Viewing the chateau from the water is considered the most dramatic sight anywhere along the Seine between the coast and Paris. The strongest, largest, and most magnificent castle of its age, it guarded the Seine River Valley and was the key structure in a vast system that defended Normandy for as long as Richard lived.

After a leisurely morning heading upriver, a tarte au citron demonstration, and another delicious lunch, we docked and enjoyed a walking tour with a fun, funny guide. We huffed and puffed up to the ruin of this huge fortress where we enjoyed bucolic views and got all the details concerning its significance. Afterward we popped into the large church in the center of town where our guide explained that not only does the village currently not have a priest, no services are held in the church except for special events like funerals and weddings. Being without a priest is now a common situation in villages throughout the country. We all had a giggle when she explained that the owner of the bar next door is the keeper of the church key, so when he opens the bar, he opens the church. When the bar closes so does the church.

Our guide, 65, shared fun, heartwarming stories that her parents and grandparents told her about the liberation of France. Lucky Strike cigarettes, chocolate, General Patton, and handsome GIs were key elements in many of them. Her grandpa had hidden some Calvados from the German forces, so after the liberation he traded shots of apple brandy for chocolate. She said her family got its first TV so that they could watch the landing on the moon. Post moon landing her family began to enjoy American TV shows that we cruisers of a certain age could all remember enjoying as teens. For fun she taught us the French expression doigt dans le nez which translates to finger up your nose and is used when something is easy peasy.

Again we had perfect weather much to the amazement of our guide and the crew. Fingers crossed that continues to hold true and we can get under the requisite bridges as we approach Paris tomorrow night. Update to follow.

… Sidebar …

Although I’ve used my rusty French off and on, it has rarely been necessary although always fun.
There are so many nationalities in the larger cities that English seems to be
the default common language when all else fails.

I had guineafowl for lunch today, a first. Think: tastes like chicken.