This port city on the Seine, founded by the Romans and sacked by the Vikings several times, is perhaps best known for France’s patron saint, Joan of Arc. It was here that she made her famous last stand and it was here that the 19-year-old was tried and condemned for heresy and burned at the stake in 1431. We got up to speed on her at this mornings’ fact-packed lecture about the history of the region and what led up to Joan’s visions, popularity, confidence, and unwavering faith.

The old town where this took place is home to 700 charming half-timbered houses, a regal cathedral where the heart (other body parts are elsewhere) of Richard the Lionheart is buried, and the usual bevy of charming shops, cafes, and narrow cobbled streets. Dan and I chose to pass on a deeper exploration of the city center and visit a working Norman farm, Domaine Duclos Fougeray, instead. This rustic farm has acres and acres of apple trees and several 18th-century buildings made of stone, mud, and timber. The owners have been making award-winning (hard) cider and other products for more than two decades. Our hosts welcomed us to their orchards and put on a lively sheep dog demonstration. The sheep used here do not eat tree bark when the grass is lacking needed minerals making them ideal lawn mowers in the orchards. The apples used for cider are never picked, they are harvested off the ground once they are ripe enough to fall off naturally. This guarantees optimal sweetness. Before returning to town we sampled a homemade apple tart; local cheese; Calvados, the region’s apple brandy; and its close cousin, pommeau.

Except for a brief shower one day the weather has been cheerier than predicted. Cool and fresh with the sun poking its head in and out. Today we enjoyed full sun and temps in the low 70s. Merci bien!