We were definitely born under lucky stars because what started out to be a cloudy, chilly (think turtleneck sweater) day morphed into a sunny, mild one. We are in the sub-Arctic, so the cool day did not come as a total surprise.

A southern city on the northern island of Hokkaido, Hakodate is best known for spectacular views, fresh seafood, ramen, and hot springs. Although Hokkaido is the second largest of the Japanese islands and has 22 percent of its landmass it remained underdeveloped and sparsely populated until the mid-1800s when its fabulous port caught the eye of foreigners looking for advantageous places to replenish their stores and make repairs. The folks who had made their home here for generations were largely of Chinese and Russian heritage.

This low-rise city with street cars and a magnificent harbor has a quarter of a million residents. I had read about the steamy outdoor foot baths for the inspired pedestrian and hoped there would be time for that. Sadly there wasn’t. There was, however, time for two inspired sites.

Goryōkaku Fort, Japan’s first and only Western style fortress, is now used as a gorgeous public park and is a popular spot for cherry blossom viewing. There are 1,600 cherry trees in the park, so the profusion of color must be astonishing when they are all in full bloom. We are at least a week early. Rats. The park features Goryōkaku Tower built to offer a panoramic view of the park as well as mainland Japan (on clear day) across the Tsugaru Strait. We zipped to the top of the tower and enjoyed a bird’s eye view of the fort which is, as promised, star shaped and surrounded by a moat.

Our Lady of the Lighthouse Trappist Monastery, better known as Trappistine Convent, was founded in 1898 by eight French Catholic nuns. This handsome green-roofed brick structure, Japan’s first convent, has zero resemblance to Japanese architecture, in fact we felt like we had stepped into a small European enclave. We learned about the nuns (there are currently 60) who lead quiet lives filled with prayer and labor beginning as early as 3:30 AM and ending around 7:45 PM. They pray seven times a day, study the sacred texts of the Trappist Order, and bake delicious cookies, butter candies, and Madeline cakes. All are for sale. Yes, we succumbed to temptation.

Along the grounds of the convent are beautiful gardens featuring an impressive collection of religious sculptures, some honoring important figures in Catholic history. Included are Mother Teresa, the Archangel Michael, and Joan of Arc.

Once Japan opened its doors to foreign trade it slowly became necessary to designate a place for the foreigners who followed to live, work, and worship. No surprise, this area in Hakodate is very near the water so easily accessible, if you discount the uphill climb, on foot. We saw a Russian Orthodox, an Episcopal, and a Catholic church as well as a large Buddhist temple. A few consulates remain as well as homes with a distinctive western meets eastern flair. A stop at the immaculately repurposed warehouses was our last hurrah for today.

Our day ended, per usual, with a fabulous four-course meal and entertainment. The last few days we’ve augmented our dinner conversation with the Colbert Questionnaire and conversation cards. From time to time those eating around us glance over with curious eyes, so we’ve shared a few questions with them as an introduction to this fun activity.

… Fun Facts about the City of Hakodate and the Island of Hokkaido …

Because of its history as a squid fishing port, Hakodate’s mascot is
none other than the humble, often overlooked squid.

In 1854 Hakodate was Japan’s first port opened to foreign trade
making it, in days gone by, the most important port in northern Japan. 

An underwater railway tunnel connects the island of Honshu with the island of Hokkaido.

The island of Hokkaido, well known for high-quality dairy products, produces 50% of Japan’s milk and 90% of its cheese. No surprise then that we saw lots of cheese, yoghurt, and ice cream for sale.  

… Fun Memory …

When we lived in Japan I got a modeling job at the snow festival in Sapporo, Hokkaido.
I impersonated a representative from Sapporo’s Italian sister city.
The real deal couldn’t make it at the last minute, so I was offered the job.
I waved demurely from the float being careful not to speak a word
since my Italian was and still is nonexistent.