There must be something about Ferris wheels because we have seen one at each port so far. Osaka is no exception. It and one of the most spectacular aquariums in the world are right on the pier.

Dan and I chose to entertain ourselves yesterday and had a delightful time. After cappuccino and muffins in the coffee shop we strolled the four and a half miles to the canal-side area of Dotonbori, a downtown area renowned for its gaudy neon lights, extravagant signage, and enormous variety of restaurants, shops, and bars. The weather was perfect for our long walk. We passed a few daycare centers stopping each time to wave at the littles in their matching hats. We poked our heads into a dumpling shop and watched two ladies feed little round discs of dough into a machine that within a couple of seconds deposited the stuffing, folded each disc neatly in half, and crimped the edges. Another two-person shop was assembling tatami mats and let us peek inside. We shared the sidewalk with lots of bicycles, many of which had one or two child seats. Some had baskets in the place of the seats and others had umbrella holders to protect the rider from the sun. Quite a few bikes had cloth covers to shield the rider’s hands from sun damage and cold weather.

Dotonbori was mobbed by the time we got there at noon. Mobbed in a high energy, fun way. Lots of laughter, picture taking, and posing in front of the huge picture of Galia, the obviously popular logo of a food packaging company. Boats moved slowly up and down the canal while onlookers enjoyed small fried balls make with octopus. (We passed on the balls.) Dan and I enjoyed the vibe; bought sun screen, Mt. Fuji Kit Kats, and chocolate-topped cookie treats in the shape of mini-mushroom at a drug store with a very helpful sales lady; and then headed to a department store where we checked out the toy department. Hopefully Bryce, Jack, and Evy will be happy with our selections. Just like at the drugstore, we were able to have the tax backed out because we had our passports as proof we are not locals. A quick taxi ride had us back at the ship in no time.

Today started with pastries and cereal in the room followed by a trip to the top of one of the peaks in the 18-mile-long Rokko Mountain Range. The area has summer homes, corporate retreats, hiking and biking trails, and manmade snow for snowboarding in winter. Clouds were predicted, so we went knowing we could have limited views once we got there. The sun surprised us with temps in the low 70s and good visibility of the city and water below. A funicular took us half way up the mountain and the bus took us the rest of the way. The mountain top did not have much to recommend itself in our opinion, but what we did enjoy was traveling on the tangle of raised highways going into and out of the city, great views of the tidy industrial area of the port, and the cherry trees, some still in full bloom, on the side of the mountain.

We also visited a sake museum at one of the local breweries. It focused entirely on the process in days gone by when everything was done by hand. We were surprised to learn that part of the process was stepping inside a large wooden vat and stomping on the grain just like grape stomping in the old days. The quality of Japan’s national drink depends on the quality of its four ingredients: sake rice, water, rice mold, and yeast. Of course we were offered samples and the opportunity to take some home.

Our runaway favorite, Japanese drummers, performed last night. Cymbals and an eerie flute were added to the mix from time to time plus lots of let’s-have-a-good-time attitude on the part of the five spunky drummers. Another group of drummers, half women, performed on the dock as we were preparing to sail away tonight.

… Fun Facts about Osaka …

Universal Studios Japan, located here in Osaka, is the company’s first theme park outside of the U.S. 

With nearly 20 million people, Osaka is the second most populous city in Japan
and the tenth most populous in the world!

Because it was the most popular port city way back when, Osaka was the first capital of Japan. 

An American architect designed the Osaka Aquarium.  

Perched on a hillside overlooking the sea, Kobe is reputed to be one of Japan’s most attractive and cosmopolitan cities. We made our approach late morning and were lucky to be invited (thanks to our suite status) to the helipad in the front of the ship where we enjoyed great views as we came into the harbor. Kobe was first among Japan’s ports until 1995; it is now number four.

Having the morning to while away we enjoyed a Sebastian-delivered breakfast and then took in two fabulous lectures, one centered on snow monkeys and the other on the history, customs, and culture of Japan. Cyd and Ricky will appreciate that the speakers were Brent Nixon and Mary Amanda Fairchild, the husband and wife team that mesmerized us with their lectures on our Panama Canal cruise.

In case you are ever under the gun to spout off snow monkey facts, here are a few guaranteed to please. These macaques have the distinction of living the farthest north of any primate. They live in a matriarchal society that enjoys soaking in thermal waters during the winter. Their babies are arriving right about now, so we are kicking ourselves for not arranging a visit. Deb is the only person I know who has seen them.

Speaking of trivia here’s some non-primate tidbits. Japan’s first emperor, believed to directly descend from the sun goddess, was named in 660 BC and remained numero uno politically for centuries. Today the government’s most influential person is the prime minister who shares the limelight with the emperor. The life expectancy here is an impressive 80. Having a purpose for each day, known as ikigai, is believed to be one of the contributors to long life.

To give our brains a rest after the lectures we had a quick lunch and then took a shuttle bus a short distance to Chinatown. We strolled down the busy, impeccably clean, main street of the interesting area and then headed back to the ship to freshen up for dinner. My meal of veal cannelloni was just as fabulous as the halibut last night and the sea bass the night before!

… Fun Facts about Kobe …

As a port city with Western exposure, Japanese musicians were playing jazz here as early as 1923.
Its popularity soared with the occupation of U.S. troops after World War II.
Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong played in Kobe multiple times.

The world-famous Kobe beef comes from Tajima cattle, a regional breed of Wagyu black cattle.
Producers claim the Tajima bloodline has been kept pure since the 17th century.
This rigorous standard and the fact that only 5,000 cattle are sold a year
make Kobe beef a rare and expensive treat indeed.

The longest suspension bridge ever built spans across the busy shipping lane
linking Kobe with Awaji-Shima Island.
It’s designed to withstand typhoons, tsunamis, and earthquakes.

Suite living is sweet indeed. Sebastian, our butler, delivered breakfast right on time and set us up at our dining table. We were told to leave everything when we were done, he’d deal with it once we left for the day. A guy could get used to this.

OK, let’s talk Shimizu. It’s located at the northwest corner of a small peninsula a 60 mile drive southwest Yokohama. By water the trip is considerably farther though, because we had to sail around the peninsula to get to the northwest corner. Also 60 miles away is Mount Fuji, Japan’s highest mountain. It is visible from this port city of 34,000 on clear days and today was a fabulous, clear day! In fact we could see it from our balcony.

After breakfast we headed off to visit a trio of interesting sites down the road in Shizuoka. Our first stop was Sumpu Castle Park, a fortress built in 1585. Throughout its history it was destroyed and rebuilt many times until the late 1860s when it was dismantled altogether. In 1949 the innermost courtyards of the former castle grounds were converted into an inviting public park, Sumpu Park, which remains surrounded by an impressive stone moat. In 2001 Momijiyama Japanese Garden was added to the park. Designed in the style of a traditional landscape garden it features a central pond and a network of walking paths. A small hill, representing Mount Fuji, is surrounded by azaleas that represent tea leaves, Shizuoka’s most famous product, while a pebbled part of the pond’s shore represents nearby Miho Beach.

Sengen Shrine is actually a group of three beautiful Shinto shrines that date back at least 1,000 years. Our guide, Kimi, offered a donation at each site and said a silent prayer for our health and welfare. She explained the correct way to do this: two donations are dropped into the large bin located at the shrine’s entrance; two bows follow; then two claps followed by a (silent) prayer; and finally a single bow. The most unusual feature of this complex for us was the Kanae Uma which translates to ‘wish-granting horse.’ This sacred steed, housed in a small wooden stable, is made of wood.

Miho-no-Matsubara is a four-and-a-half-mile stretch of black sand beach that overlooks the sea. We approached the beach via a gorgeous pine tree-lined boardwalk that runs from the parking lot to the entrance closest to the most celebrated tree in the impressive pine forest that runs along the shore. There are well over 30,000 trees, the granddaddy of which is 650 years old. The combination of the green pine forest, white waves, sand, blue ocean, and Mt. Fuji in the distance has inspired its fair share of poems and artwork. Miho-no-Matsubara was registered as a part of Mt. Fuji World Heritage Site when it got its designation in 2013.

Being a little bit off the beaten path here in Shimizu meant no maddening crowds, crowded parking lots, or waits to see what we came for. Kimi was a pleasant guide and her English was great. She shared her love of hash browns, the old TV series Chips, and the freedom to choose she has enjoyed as an unmarried woman. Yep, she was a bit of a character. She shared the history of the fancy toilets Japan is known for and boasted of guiding Tom Cruise, Will Smith, and other celebrities when they were here filming.

Our drive back to the ship had the shoreline on one side and miles of greenhouses used for the cultivation of strawberries on the other. Dan and I got back in time for a light, late lunch, a short nap, and before we knew it, it was time to meet Hettie and Ronnie for cocktails followed by dinner and a rousing performance by Voxx, The West End Tenors.

… Just for the Fun of It …

Japan is about the size of Montana.

Japan does not shy away from cute and Shimizu’s mascot is a perfect example of that.
Yusui-kun is an elf who lives in the river.
He wears gloves and a Mount Fuji shaped hat, both of which change colors with the seasons,
and a uniform with pockets large enough to store green rice and several books.
He’s a park ranger with a side gig of making dreams come true.

Shintoism originated in Japan.

Very little sleep for the weary last night. Lights out at 9:00. We fell fast asleep and were wide awake at 1:00 for a restless remainder of the night. It rained nonstop, so we had that to keep us company. I was up, dressed, and waiting for the breakfast buffet to open at 7:00. Dan managed to doze off just before I finally gave up and got up, so he didn’t mosey down until 8:30 or so. Enough whining already, time to slip into mellow vacation mode where whatever comes is part of the adventure.

Our little foursome met in the lobby at 10:30 for the four minute, $6.00 taxi ride to the port. Had it not been for the rain we could have walked. Checking in was a breeze thanks to all the pre-cruise online shortcuts. We were on board exploring by 11:15 and seated at noon for lunch.

There was a lottery of sorts, based on blind bidding, to get stateroom upgrades. Hettie and Ronnie and Dan and I submitted bids and we both “won.” We were excited to see the largest staterooms, in this case called Celebrity Suites, any of us had enjoyed preciously. We were not disappointed with our 467 square feet, two-room suites! It might be tough to coax us out of our staterooms when you add an 85 square foot balcony, walk-in closet, whirlpool tub, mini-frig, and two TVs. Would now be an appropriate time to give a shoutout to our butler Sabastian? Wink.

We spent the afternoon getting re-familiarized with the ship, which we have sailed on before, unpacking, organizing, and counting our blessing before meeting Hettie and Ronnie for cocktails and dinner. We are all pooped, so we’re passing on tonight’s entertainment and racing to bed so we’ll be fresh for our first day of exploring tomorrow.

… Observations …

All hotel staff we have come across has worn a mask as well as our four cab drivers
and employees at the attractions we visited yesterday.

The cabs we’ve been in have all had pretty cloth seat covers.

So far no ship staff is wearing a mask.

Although we toured Honshu, the main and largest island in Japan, Last spring we took our old cruise buddies, Hettie and Ronnie, up on their invitation to cruise with them around this fascinating country This spring. We’ll be going clockwise starting and ending in Yokohama. Seems we can’t get enough of the Land of the Rising Sun.

Our nonstop flight from Dulles to Haneda was 14 hours and passed quickly with 3 movies: The Zone of Interest (haunting), No Reservation (cute), and Pricilla (a walk down memory lane); a couple of naps; two meals and a snack; and a few chapters from a new book, The Family Upstairs by Lisa Jewel. Unnoticed we slipped across the International Dateline somewhere west of Hawaii. Home to hotel was just shy of 20 hours. Just as we were completing our journey Hettie and Ronnie were starting theirs.

Dan and I arrived, fried but excited to be back, two days early in an attempt to wrestle the jet lag. A quick taxi ride dropped us at the Hyatt closest to the pier we will need in a couple days. The hotel is beautiful and offered a warm welcome by means of a cool face cloth and cold iced tea. We defaulted to a light meal in the hotel and then settled in for an early night.

All day today, the 8th, was free, so we decided to wing it and ended up having a very nice day. We strolled down by the water and toured two early-1900s-era brick warehouses that have been beautifully refurbished and now house shops and restaurants. The waterfront is clean, well maintained, and nicely organized for tourists and locals alike. From there it was a quick stroll to the Cup Noodle Museum. You read that right…there is such a museum. I’d actually call it more like an experience than a museum. It told the story of the man who invented Cup Noodle. There are a couple of noodle inspired art installations, a life-size statue of the inventor, an old fashioned noodle shop, and the big attractions: the opportunity to make ramen noodles from scratch and/or decorate and assemble a personalized Cup Noodle that you can take home. Since we were flying by the seat of our pants we arrived too late to snag a place in a noodle class. Darn.

We grabbed a cab from there and headed to the Kirin Brewery. Thankfully we had a lovely driver who asked at the brewery gate if we could get a tour. Shockingly the guard said no, they were sold out. What are the odds? We did a quick pivot and requested the cabbie take us a few miles more to the Ramen Museum. With my translator app I was able to thank him profusely for taking such good care of us. Here is the funny part of the story: the trip to the Ramen Museum ended up costing us $59 with the wasted stop at the brewery and the time it took, with the meter running, to pivot. We got a senior admission price at the museum which was, seriously, $0.66 each! So much for the wisdom of seasoned travelers. Once inside we learned the history of ramen, its importance during times of food scarcity, and its rise to Michelin Star status. There were wonderful mock ups of an old ramen cart, a narrow street lined with noodle shops, and a charming food court built to look like it was a couple hundred years old.

Back to the hotel for tea which we finished moments before Hettie and Ronnie arrived. Perfect timing.

… On a Need to Know Basis …

We gained time as we flew west, but once across the pesky International Dateline
we were suddenly dropped into tomorrow.

There is a 13 hour time change between the East Coast of the U.S. and Japan.

The yen is the third-most traded currency in the foreign exchange market
after the U.S. dollar and the euro.

151 yen (Y) = $1.00 so 1,514 Y = $10 which means 3,028 Y = $20 and so on and so forth.
Sidebar: when Dan and I lived here in the early 1970s the rate was about 171 to the dollar.

As a complete aside, facial recognition software was used in lieu of boarding passes for
our flight out of Dulles and again when we went through immigration in Japan.

Guess who did a TV commercial for Cup Noodle when she lived here in the early 1970s?

There were no excuses for being unprepared to get off the ship since we were at sea all day yesterday. Just like during the entire trip the seas were calm, lucky us, as we ventured through the Andaman Sea and later the Malacca Straight with Malaysia on our port/left side and Sumatra on our starboard/right side. Once in the Straight we noticed a lot (!!) of traffic, more than I’ve ever seen. Everything from small family-sized fishing boats to cargo ships plied the water. We napped, did online entry paperwork for Singapore, packed, and ate our way through the day before enjoying the last evening’s entertainment.

Walter and Cleone are staying on in Singapore. We have been before, so we’re heading straight home. Straight might be an exaggeration since our flight will not leave until 10:30 tonight and we lined up to leave the ship at 8:30 this morning. To help kill some of that time we booked a city tour with an airport drop-off. Getting off the ship and through immigration took way longer than anticipated which was no issue for us since we have such a late flight. By the time our group got to our designated bus it and the guide had left with less than 10% of the tour group on board. That left the rest of us flummoxed on what to do. Celebrity was a bit confused also and decided to refund our money and drop us at the airport which was really a disappointing solution.

Singapore’s Changi Airport is a stunner! I dare say there is no other airport like it anywhere. Four terminals plus the five-story Jewel offer an array of unexpected things to see and do. Some complimentary and some for a fee. For those who come prepared there is a rooftop pool where you can float and watch planes take off. A butterfly garden offers 1,000 tropical butterflies of 40 species. Not into butterflies? How about an indoor rainforest, a slide that’s four-stories tall, a digital waterfall, cooking school, floor to ceiling rain vortex, art installations, indoor rain forest, or a canopy park? This does not count the duty frees, restaurants, and shops.

We were free to roam freely between the Jewel and terminals one, two, and three. Our issue was our luggage which could not be checked until 6:30. We had to push it around (on an airport-provided cart) for five hours which made exploring more of a challenge than had we been hands-free. We had lunch, enjoyed as much as we could, and then settled in near the United counter to be among the first to dump our luggage and get through the all-automated security checkpoint. I had a fun chat with two of my fellow cruisers, both strangers killing time waiting with us for United to open. One was a Guatemalan Celebrity employee going home for his three-month break. I told him I had been to his country and loved to say Chichicastenango (a small Maya town known for its craft market). Just rolls off the tongue. The other person was a lady who will soon be on dialysis while she awaits a kidney transplant. She is cramming in as much of the world as she can before then. Once through security I met an American French horn player who has lived in Singapore for 27 years! He got a job with the symphony right out of college and has never left. He was heading home to visit family.

If all goes well we’ll have an uneventful 14.5 hour nonstop flight to San Francisco followed by a 2.5 hour layover followed by a 4.5 hour nonstop to Virginia, and finally a 45 minute cab ride home. From wake-up to our front door should be around 38 hours. Fingers crossed. With the International Date Line working in our favor we’ll be home around 9:00 AM tomorrow.

… Curious? …

Singapore is a city, a nation and a state. I am not sure how that works.

It is smaller than Rhode Island and has a population of five million people
from four major communities: Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Eurasian.

Singapore comprises a main island, three large and 58 small islands.

The Singapore dollar (SGD) is the currency.
$1.00 = 1.33 SGD

I spent a summer in Thailand in the late 1960s when my parents and brother lived in Bangkok. Together we explored Chiang Mai and Pattaya as well as the bustling city of Bangkok. Dan and I returned a couple times in the early 1970s when we lived in Japan. This is our first time to explore Phuket, the largest of Thailand’s 1,430 islands. It is situated at the southern end of the country, is 70% hills, and has a population of 300,000.

Many of us remember the 2004 tsunami which hammered this island’s western coast and tragically claimed thousands of lives. We passed memorials to the victims as well as evacuation route signs. Thankfully there is a better warning system now should the area once again come under threat. 

Everyone going ashore had to be tendered in and out from the beach. To guarantee that no sand got between our toes or moisture on our shoes we pulled up to a really long, maybe 300 yards, floating pier that took us from the tender to the sidewalk. Quite something and new to me.

Our bus, driver, and guide, who greeted each of us with a small handwoven fish, were waiting about a quarter mile from the beach. This short walk gave us an opportunity to stroll along the water and cement our first impressions of the island. My immediate impression was Cabo meets the Caribbean meets New Orleans. It is not the real Thailand according to our guide, who did not elaborate. Known for its 30+ white-sand beaches, lively nightlife, aquamarine water, limestone cliffs, beautiful resorts, and good shopping, it’s a huge draw for foreigners as well as Thais.

We made three fun stops on our tour today. Many Chinese have immigrated to Phuket over the years, so it is no surprise that Kio Thian Keng Saphan Hin Shrine was designed in the Chinese style. It has artistic images of various deities on its (busy) altars and a few life-size statues on the grounds. It is either new or impeccably maintained and makes quite an impression with its vibrant reds, gleaming white marble, and gold accents. Something new to me was a large, gold, vase-shaped ‘oven’ where worshipers bring ‘fireworks.’ These are put in the oven where they explode and either bring good luck or grant wishes.

The stop at a cashew factory was fun. Who knew that each fruit on a cashew tree produces all of one nut. No wonder cashews are so expensive. Although machines do most of the work now there was a demonstration of how the nuts used to be cracked by hand. Always on the prowl for gifts and goodies we enjoyed the large gift shop teaming with cashew treats as well as some fun handcrafted items.

Our last official site was Wat Chalong, reputed to be the most beautiful temple on the island. Temple is a misnomer because it is really a complex of magnificent, impeccably maintained buildings. There is a ‘fireworks oven’ there too but it is made of bricks and looks much like a tall kiln. White and gold are the dominate colors on most of the building. Those game to remove their shoes could go inside a few of the temples.

Fun firsts are always a treat for me. There were two more besides the temple ovens and the floating tender docks. The first was seeing stalls near the water where live fish of various kinds were for sale in quart-sized plastic bags. Fish release is a Buddhist tradition that promotes the concept of good karma. It can be done as part of a festival or not. Purchasers choose a fish that has been identified to bring a particular kind of good fortune: one kind for good health, one for grief, one for romance issues, etc.

The other fun first were the snake deterrents attached to utility poles. Think large bonnet-shaped woven metal baskets turned upside down and wrapped around the pole. A snake can shinny up the pole but only get as far as the basket before it falls down or skillfully turns around and goes back down. These baskets were all over town which leads me to believe snakes have not limited their whereabouts to the hills. Yikes.

Our tour took us around town on wonderful roads teeming with scooters, some with sidecars. We saw a Toyota dealership next to a mom and pop food stall which ran into a repair shop, a large single family home, townhouses with dwellings above and shops below, and an urban banana grove. We passed IKEA, lots of 7-Elevens, an old public bus converted to a barbershop, and, wait for it, an outlet mall! Money exchange kiosks are everywhere as are urban billboards. Just like in the other countries we have visited the rich and poor easily mingle and there seems to be no danger to the lone attendants at the money exchanges. Amazing really compared to how it is in the states.

We got back to the dock right after sunset just as the town was coming alive. It will stay alive we were told until around 4:00 tomorrow morning!

Before we left the ship this noon Dan arranged to decorate a table for us with fun things he brought from home. Once we were back on board and cleaned up we headed to our dining room for a delicious Thanksgiving dinner at our one-of-a-kind table. Dan supplied us with fun headbands, so a few folks stopped by the table to comment on them and wish us a Happy Thanksgiving.

Our clocks will be turned ahead another hour before turning out the lights making us 13 hours ahead of home.

… Thai Trivia …

Thai baht (BHT) is the official currency.
1 BHT = $0.028 / 35.53 BHT = $1.00

Cashews are grown here now but are actually native to Brazil.

Siam, as Thailand was called until 1939, was ruled by an absolute monarchy for 700 years.
It was never colonized by Europeans. 

Thai is the official language; the national flower is the orchard; and
Buddhism is far and away the most common religion.

Thai inventions include: Red Bull, Thai boxing, the polyethylene prosthetic leg,
the tuk tuk, and an operating table for elephants.

Before their death in 1893 conjoined twins inspired the term Siamese twins.

Phra Phuttha Maha Suwana Patimakon temple is home to the world’s largest solid gold Buddha.
It is 15-foot tall and weighs approximately five and a halve tons!   

Thailand is the largest exporter of orchids and rice in the world.

Thailand is the same size as France and has 69 million people.

We do love sea days. They provide a good excuse to sleep late and do virtually nothing. Sleeping late is relative since we moved our clocks up another hour night before last and 30 minutes more last night, so we really can’t tell what time our bodies think it is. Midnight at home is noon the following day on board ship. Regardless Walter and I usually manage to run into one another each morning with the lazy bones, Dan in particular, taking their sweet time getting going.

We’ve had overcast skies, temps in the mid-80s, and just enough rain and wind to discourage the average cruiser from lounging on the sundeck. My strategy is to use enough pool towels to absorb the moisture on the lounge chairs and snag a cozy, shaded corner as soon as the skies clear. Perfect for a little snooze as well as reading.

Cleone and I enjoyed two interesting lectures: Life (of the crew) on the Water and a Q and A with the captain and cruise director. We learned there are 800 crew rooms on board and that Celebrity was owned by Greeks until it was sold to Royal Caribbean. That last little tidbit answers the often-asked question of why there are so many Greek captains sailing with Celebrity. Our captain, a Greek, talked about being on a full ship when it became clear that the world would lockdown for the pandemic. It was his responsibility to get all passengers and crew home which took seven months during which time he did not get off the ship even once. The cruise director had a different experience since he was assigned to a brand new ship not yet out of the ship yard. At 90% complete with no passengers, it was not stocked with all necessary provisions, had poor internet, and there were only a few other crew members to create a quarantined pod.

Sea days are fun days to chat up strangers/fellow cruisers. It’s amazing how many, Aussies mainly, got on the Edge in Rome and will sail through to Sidney. That is three back-to-back cruises. Some passengers are even going a fourth and will disembark in New Zealand! I chatted with a Brit who reminisced about picnicking at Stone Hinge as a child. While the adults rested, played cards, and chatted up friends and family the kids climbed all over the now famous but then no-big-deal stones (big eye emoji). Another couple shared their story of meeting the September after her high school graduation, marrying three months later, and celebrating their 63rd anniversary. He was wearing a Retired not Expired t-shirt and told us stories about flying with Chuck Yeager during his Air Force career. Dan met a couple who moved to Panama 12 years ago after taking early retirements. They will move back to the states once they qualify for Medicare. Another couple we met has sailed from Dubai to Singapore four times! It’s always fun to hear other people’s stories.

Speaking of stories, we four know each other pretty well but after bringing out some conversation cards tonight at dinner we learned even more. Did you ever collect anything? Which family members were you closest to when you were growing up? How has your hometown changed? Where are all the places you have lived? What was your most memorable birthday? Which celebrity or important figure from your lifetime would you have liked to meet?

We headed to bed looking forward to our last stop tomorrow.

… Sidebar …

Happy anniversary Jen and Rhett!
My parents and sister also married Thanksgiving week.

Celebrity Edge’s godmother is Malala Yousafzai, the youngest Nobel Prize laureate in history
and an advocate for female education and human rights.

Malala must be happy to know that 30% of the Edge’s crew is female (50% more than is typical) and that Lisa Lutoff-Perlo is the first woman CEO to run a publicly-traded cruise company. It was under her leadership that Celebrity appointed the first American female captain.

The Edge was completely designed in 3D and then tweaked with the help of virtual reality simulation.

Tom Wright, designer of Dubai’s iconic Burj al Arab, designed the exterior spaces on board the Edge.

 

Never having been here before, I was excited to have a look around and decided to do that as soon as we docked yesterday. How hard could it be to take the shuttle to the gate of the port and walk into the capital of this little island nation? Pretty easy as it were. We managed to make it through the gauntlet of tuk tuk drivers assembled feet from the gate who double as tour guides for “best price … cheap.” We strolled along, map in hand, quite proud to have said a succession of no thank yous and to be on our own. With our defenses down we took little notice of a nicely dressed man who wondered it we were American and lo and behold, we had something in common: he works for the American Embassy! He announced this with a grand gesture to a large, impressive building to our left which we later learned was a hotel. He doubled down by flashing his embassy ID safely tucked behind plastic. Anyway, before we knew it he had chosen a reputable tuk tuk driver for us, negotiated a $10/hour rate, and off we were sent to the city center to attend the gem festival where there was “a steal on unique treasures … 50% off.”

Riding in a tuk tuk is like sitting on top of a noisy lawn mower. Besides being loud we were right at exhaust pipe level which left Dan a bit queasy. We zigged and zagged and weaved in and out of traffic like we were in some kind of hurry. We decided to lean into the experience and actually enjoyed the view close to the pavement.

We did make a quick stop at a jewelry store, presumable a stand-in for the gem festival, but spent most of our time at a fabulous, colorful temple. Our bossy driver/guide escorted us through shoe removal and then walked us efficiently around with a steady refrain of “come … come.” He told us what to look at, when to look, and where and how to take the best pictures. He often took the photos himself once he told us where to stand. He made sure we were in line to get a string bracelet and a blessing from a saffron-robed monk. We did as we were instructed and chalked it up to a fun and funny experience.

An hour and a half later in the pouring rain we were dropped back at the gate to the port. The friendly, lively experience shifted swiftly to our driver a) needing local currency, b) insisting we agreed to $10 per person per hour which he rounded up to “let’s say $30,” and c) mentioning his family as well as the spike in his expenses lately. Just as he had Dan in the palm of his emotional hand, I gave him $15 plus $1 to pay for bank charges to change currency and nudged Dan to make a quick exit before he sped off with us captive. The ole bait and switch as well as the “I work for the American Embassy” must be common scams since another couple we met ended up paying $50 for two hours after the ‘embassy employee’ found a tuk tuk for them too. All in all a fun and interesting adventure with no harm done.

Today we had a five-hour tour around the city. Unlike the two port cities we visited in India, Colombo is impeccably clean and tidy with beautiful public parks, landscaped roundabouts, statues in public spaces, and interesting architecture. Similar to India, the rich and poor intermingle in public spaces and modern architecture influenced by colonial occupations neighbor ancient temples, old marketplaces, and small kiosks selling everything from soup to nuts. My biggest surprise was a snake charmer sitting on the sidewalk with a snake (a cobra?) in each of two baskets and a small monkey on a leash.

We made three stops. The first was to the National Museum which is on large manicured grounds. We enjoyed King of Kandy’s regalia; Hindu and Buddhist bronzes; and a nice collection of cultural artifacts including masks, loin cloths, and a throne dating to the late 1600s. I rushed through so I’d have ample time in the gift shop I assumed would greet me at the exit. NOT. (Sad face)

Our second stop allowed us to visit Asokaramaya Buddhist Temple with its stunning gold, marble, and bejeweled statues of Buddha and Gangaramaya Temple with a floor-to-ceiling Buddha and his worshipers painted in vibrant lacquer. A highlight of this temple complex is a sacred fig tree. Off to one side were a number of small stainless steel vessels for worshipers to use in offering water to the tree along with their prayers. I chose a vessel, filled it with water, and thought about my good fortune while slowly pouring the water on the base of the tree.

Between these two stops we were offered refreshments in the Galle Face Hotel, a still lovely 18th century hotel.

Entertainment these two nights was interesting. A female magician from the UK did the usual impossible magic stuff with the show stopper being getting out of a straight jacket while hanging upside down. And a troupe of young Sri Lankan dancers performed in elaborate traditional costumes to the accompaniment of six drummers.

… For What It’s Worth …

The Sri Lankan rupee (LKR) is the legal tender here.
1 LKR = $0.0031 / 327 LKR = $1.00

Sri Lanka, formerly known as Ceylon, has two official languages: Sinhala and Tamil.
It’s about the size of West Virginia.

Sri Lanka is officially a Buddhist country, but other religions are also practiced.

Just like in India and Thailand, driving is on the left side of the road.

Sri Lanka produces 80%-90% of the world’s cinnamon.

Sri Lanka’s Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage maintains the largest herd of captive elephants in the world.
Orphaned and disabled Asian elephants are cared for and protected here.
Established in 1975, it is the first initiative of its kind anywhere.

The blue sapphire in Princess Diana’s engagement ring, now worn by Kate Middleton, came from here.

In July 1959 Bandaranaike became the world’s first female prime minister.

Up at 7:00.
Continental breakfast at 8:00.
Off the ship at 9:15.
In immigration line at 9:16.
Through immigration at 9:17!!!!

Our tour today was in this flourishing port city, also known as Kochi, on the southwest coast of India in the state of Kerala. Its nickname is Queen of the Arabian Sea possibly because it was the center of the Indian spice trade for centuries. Chinese, Dutch, Arab, and Jewish influences transformed the area into a melting pot of different traditions after a flood created its irresistible port in 1341.

We were welcomed at the port by beautifully dressed women offering a red bindi to anyone interested (count me in) and four people dressed in vibrantly colored and beautiful carnival costumes.

Even with only ten percent of the population of Mumbai, it is a large, bustling city. Scooters and three-wheeled tuk tuks dominate the roads with bicycles and cars in stiff competition. It was humid today, an indication of its tropical climate and 122 inches of rain a year. Not only were the gods of hospitality smiling on us (no wait at immigration), the weather gods were too, because rain was predicted but did not materialize.

Our group boarded a bus that gives Dolly Parton’s A Coat of Many Colors a run for its money! It shouted Welcome to India and reminded me of our bus in Panama. The seats and ceiling were upholstered in royal blue brushed velvet that had swoops, swishes, and swipes of bright contrasting colors. The headrests and back of each seat had a bright tangerine colored removable wrap.

The most fascinating stop of the day was at the city’s iconic cantilevered Chinese fishing nets which were first set up in the 14th century and line the harbor’s beautiful beaches. The Portuguese introduced this type of fishing which continues today mostly on behalf of tourists like us. Large fishing platforms are built over the water on small piers. Huge nets are lifted in and out of the water capturing whatever happens to swim by.

The most surprising stop of the day goes to the 16th-century Church of St. Francis, one of the oldest European churches in the country. The surprise is that the famous explorer Vasco da Gama, the first Portuguese sailor to reach the shores of Kerala, died here in 1524 during his third visit to Kochi. We visited his burial spot inside the church. (Sidebar: Fourteen years later his son took his father’s body back to Portugal.)

Of interest was a palace the Dutch built in the 16th century. It’s official name is Mattencherry Palace but the nickname Dutch Palace seems to have stuck. It is a museum today and home to cherished Hindi frescos, royal palanquins, antique weapons, and more.

We had a quick stroll through the Jewish district before heading back to the ship. It has a beautiful synagogue but few Jewish residents remain. We shopped spice stores and what-not shops but did not find any treasures to take home.

Speaking of shopping, friendly street venders were everywhere and loaded with everything from peacock feather fans to blingy umbrellas (that I almost bought) to musical instruments, smoothies, clothing, carvings, and handbags. I had fun bargaining for two puzzles.

We were told to expect up to a three hour wait on our return to the ship because we had to go through immigration to depart the country. Instead of a three hour wait, we had more like a three minute wait. We breezed though somewhere south of 2:00 o’clock and headed straight to the buffet where we grazed until we looked at our watches and realized it was tea time. We executed the seemingly impossible feat of transitioning straight to tea. All but Cleone that is; she sat with us but did not embarrass herself. Quick showers took us to cocktails and then to the 7:00 show which was a dazzling performance by the Celebrity singers, dancers, and aerialist. Then off to bed with us.

… Oh Really …

India is a country of a zillion languages, 22 of which are official languages.
Hindi is the most common.
An additional 100 are not officially recognized by the government but exist none the less.
Add dialects and mother tongues and you’ve got yourself hundreds of other options.

Approximately 70% of the world’s spices come from India.

Not that it ever crossed your mind, but at 90 feet tall, India is home to the world’s largest sundial
and the world’s tallest statue. The Statue of Unity is 600 feet tall.

India’s national beverage is tea.
India is the world’s second largest producer of tea after China.

No surprise that India is home to loads of inventions.
Here are just a few: shampoo, yoga, refined sugar, cataract surgery,
high quality steel, tonsillectomies, the catapult, diamond mining and diamond tools,
jute cultivation, indigo, squat toilets,
the use of checks in financial transactions, and on and on and on.

… Completely Beside the Point …

My wedding dress was made of Indian lace by Mother’s dressmaker in Bangkok.
Cyd’s maid of honor dress was made out of Indian sari fabric.