After another sumptuous breakfast in the dining room, we packed up and headed south to check out two stops that came highly recommended by family and friends (thank you Jen, Leni, and Cleone), both in Glen Arbor.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a national park since 1970, covers a 35-mile-long stretch of Lake Michigan’s eastern coastline as well as two islands. It’s known for its diversity of plants and animals, miles of sand beach, and bluffs that tower 450 feet above Lake Michigan. Getting to the famous bluffs with their even more famous views below involves a three and a half mile round trip hike in the sand. Up one dune and down the backside. Up the next dune and down the backside. And repeat and repeat until you are awed by the view. Dan and I climb a third of the way to where we could see Lake Michigan in the distance and called it a morning.

After the hike we visited Sleeping Bear Point Coast Guard Station Maritime Museum, a Life-Saving Service station in use until the 1940s. It is typical of the 60 stations that were once along the Great Lakes. The outdoor museum includes the home where the number one guy, the captain, and his family lived with the seven-man crew and a boat house where rescue equipment was stored. An enthusiastic guide walked us through the fine points of a) getting the surfboats to the water and b) the use of a Lyle gun, a line (rope) thrower powered by a short-barreled cannon.

So, how did the heavy, super sturdy surfboats get to the water’s edge? The crew pushed them on rails laid in a track on top of the sand as far as the track allowed and then horses, borrowed from locals, pulled them the rest of the way. And the Lyle gun? Once in place on the beach this gun shot a 19 pound steel projectile with a light line tied to it over the distressed ship. As the line fell across the ship, the crew could grab it and pull out heavier lines to rig a breeches buoy that could be pulled back and forth between the ship and shore. None of us knew anything about a breeches buoy, so she next explained that it was a life ring with a pair of canvas breeches (pants) sewn into it. The person being rescued would sit in the breeches buoy and be pulled to shore. Live and learn.

On our way out of the park we drove through tiny Glen Haven, a company town from 1865 to 1931 that is being revived, repaired, and rebuilt. Originally a dock for Glen Arbor, the site soon became a fuel supply point for ships traveling up and down the lake. Enterprising folks saw profits in adding a lumber business, an inn, a general store, and a blacksmith shop. Slowly a company town was born and is now being reborn.

Our reward for all that climbing and learning was as good a fish (lake perch) and chips lunch as we’ve ever had. Dan and I each got SIX filets lightly dusted in cornmeal and fried to perfection. After complaining about the easily-enough-for-two portion of fish we both devoured it all. Then it was time to shop. First for a Hemingway book in honor of the trip to Michigan, then a new sweater in honor of it catching my eye, and finally everything we could dream of with even a hint of cherry. Liqueurs, soft drinks, dried fruit, chocolate covered fruit, scones, jams, jellies, sauces, and more are available at Cherry Republic. Add a tasting room, restaurant, and a pit spitting alley and you have yourself a one-stop enterprise honoring the fact that Michigan’s Northwest Lower Peninsula is the largest producer of tart cherries in the country.

We knew we’d have a short night, so we headed the two and a half hour drive north back to Pellston, home of the cute airport. We dropped our bags at the hotel, returned the car, had a drink at the airport bar, and walked the quarter mile back to the hotel.

If all goes according to plan we’ll get up at 4:00, transfer a quarter of a mile to the airport at 5:15, take off at 6:30, land in Detroit at 7:30, layover for seven hours, and take off for home at 2:30. With good luck we should walk in the door by 5:00.

Bottom line: Michigan did not disappoint. We now see what all the fuss is about.

PS: Thank you Deb and Tom.

Monday
To get back to the mainland we did the reverse of arriving being careful to get ourselves to the right dock at the right time and insuring our bags did the same. We spent our three hours of free time this morning meandering the impeccably tidy downtown streets; grabbing breakfast at Chuck Wagon, a hot tip from a delivery man; shopping Doud’s Market, the oldest grocery store in the country; and locating the Indian Dormitory and mini-Statue of Liberty (thank you Boy Scouts of America). The streets were busy with horse-drawn wagons delivering all sorts of goods before the arrival of the first ferry of the day.

As soon as our luggage was offloaded in Mackinaw City we found the car and headed two and a half hours south to Traverse City and then cut north 12 miles to our destination, Chateau Chantal, a B&B on a working vineyard on the narrow Old Mission Peninsula. Situated on a bluff overlooking vines as far as the eye can see with Lake Michigan in the distance, it made quite an impression. We were lucky there was an accommodation available, unusual this time of year. We have a beautifully appointed two-room suite with a tiny patio steps away from one of the many postcard views of the scenery below.

Dan and I graduated high school with Fran who, along with her husband, Jim, not only farms grapes, apples, and cherries, but is part owner of the winery. With 48 hours notice that we were going to be in their neck of the woods they invited us to dinner. We had a grand time talking old times, catching up, hearing about their decision to trade corporate America for wine, seeing Jim’s stained glass and Fran’s stunning one-of-a-kind garments and quilts, and hearing about their decision to spend a large part of each winter on Molokai doing mission work. Jim made cherry pie from their cherries and Fran cooked pork in her homemade cherry barbecue sauce. Delicious. After totally overstaying our welcome, we headed back to our gorgeous accommodations and fell into bed.

Today
In order to luxuriate in our fine surroundings we decided to have a down day of sorts. Breakfast pizza, tossed greens, fresh fruit, pastries, and brown sugar bacon in the sunny dining room got the day started off on a high note. From there we explored the northern part of the peninsula, all six miles of it. We almost had the road and the few sites to ourselves. We enjoyed seeing a small log home built in 1856, a lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula, a general store that looked about as old as the log house, a mission church, and a mission house. This took us to noon, so we shared a couple of cookies and the local market’s special of the day: a double bacon cheeseburger and chips. Naps followed, then a complimentary wine tasting, reading in the sun, and snacks for dinner. We got a giggle out of the notion that we dined on Oreos, salt and vinegar chips, ice water, and jelly beans in our beautiful room. I guess it’s true: you can take the kids out of the country but you can’t take the country our of the kids.

… A Sidebar of Note …

Since the original plan was to be across the Mackinac Bridge
enjoying the Upper Peninsula these last two days, I thought it might be fun to mention a couple of personal things about the other half of the state.

Deb and Tom’s origin story started in Marquette!
They met and married there. The rest is history.

Although Dan and I are new to Michigan we have actually been to the Upper Peninsula,
two times as a matter of fact.
Dan and Deb’s dad retired from the Air Force at K.I. Sawyer Air Force Base in Marquette,
and we came for his retirement ceremony in 1975.
When Dan deployed to Operations Desert Shield and Desert Storm in 1990
Matt, Murphy, and I returned to K.I. Sawyer to spend the Christmas holiday with Cyd
where she was living with her Air Force husband and three super cool kids.

Michigan is comprised of two peninsulas: the Lower Peninsula and the Upper Peninsula. They are connected by the roughly five-mile-long Mackinac Bridge. Sandwiched between the two peninsulas is Mackinac Island, a car-free vacation destination with the iconic 1887 Grand Hotel and the Victorian-era Fort Mackinac. Exploring this unique island was our focus today.

Deb had already arranged for ferry tickets, so all we had to do is get ourselves to the dock. We could have sailed from St. Ignace on the Upper Peninsula or Mackinaw City on the Lower; we chose Mackinaw City since it is closer.

Getting folks to and from the island works like a well oiled machine. First get yourself to the dock one way or the other. Check luggage and bikes, just like you would if you were flying, with the promise luggage will be delivered to your hotel and bikes will meet you on the dock. Park your car, if you have one, and then queue up for the next ferry. The crossing is 25 minutes long and the dock where we pulled in is right smack downtown.

Dan and I lucked into a room at the Grand Hotel at the last minute (yesterday), so we walked the half mile and could check in right away. On our way to the hotel we passed one ridiculously charming place after the next: homes, inns, businesses, small parks, stables, you name it. Flowers, trees, shrubs…flowers, trees, shrubs…repeat. Clean as a whistle and cute in a Key West meets Disney kind of way. Our favorite just might be the small stone church on the edge of town.

We decided to spend as much of the day as it took to see the impressive hotel and its gorgeous grounds as penance for paying so much (more than we’ve ever spent) for the experience. We explored every common area, had lunch el fresco at the Jockey Club, took a tour of the stables and carriage museum, had drinks in the parlor (common area on the plaza level), sat on the longest porch in the world and enjoyed the spectacular view of Lake Huron; and shared a charcuterie plate and had drinks in the Cupola Bar known for its Venetian chandelier and 180 degree view of the water. We were determined to have the full Monte of an experience and feel very satisfied that we did.

Between drinks and sliders in the parlor and drinks and a charcuterie plate in the Cupola we strolled downtown to enjoy the atmosphere. Think fudge, t-shirt, souvenir, and taffy shops; bars and restaurants; zillions of bicycles (1,400 are for rent) and horse drawn vehicles of all kinds; vacation rentals of all sorts (no chain hotels), pooper scoopers, and a few sites. Our timing was such that we ended up at the small park at the base of the old fort just as Boy Scouts were taking down the flags to the accompaniment of retreat played by a trumpeter at the wall of the fort. The weather was warmer than predicted and tourists like us were showing their appreciation for that by being out and about.

… Fun Facts About the Island …

Five U.S. presidents have visited the island.
In fact we saw the carriage the Grand Hotel used to escort them around the island.

Mackinac National Park, the second national part in the U.S., was established
just three years after Yellowstone National Park. 

Ten tons of sugar arrive on the island each week during the high season.
It’s all transported by ferry and then horse-drawn dray and quickly turned into fudge.

Horses are a way of life here. 500-600 are used during the season.
All but a few winter off island and are brought back year after year.

Records indicate fur trading was popular as early as the 1600s.
In 1809, John Jacob Astor established the American Fur Company and monopolized the fur trade market trading furs valued at more than $3 million annually.
Where was his headquarters? You guessed it, Mackinac Island.

Friday
Deb and Tom headed back to Betty’s for breakfast this morning and Dan and I enjoyed a lie-in and later had coffee and shared a breakfast burrito from the takeout deli in the lobby. At 10:00 we met and headed 15 miles north to Petoskey, population somewhere under 6,000.

Petoskey has a vibrant downtown with an impeccably maintained area called the Gaslight District. Named for the historic gas lamps I’m guessing. A shopping area for more than 100 years, this district is bursting with independent shops, boutiques, and galleries. We popped in and out of Deb and Tom’s favorite shops before ordering a takeout lunch that we enjoyed at a picnic table in a small, flower-laden public park.

Little Traverse Bay is a hop, skip, and a jump from the Gaslight District and is accessible by road as well as a nicely landscaped walkway. We went down with two missions in mind: check out the quaint Little Traverse Historical Museum, where Corn Roast tickets are now on sale, and walk on the beach in search of Petoskey stones.

The little museum, housed in a former railway depot, was interesting and fun. There was a small exhibit with pictures of influential women from the area; fun food displays that talked about the days when a ticket for 21 meals at the Petoskey Cafe could be bought for $3.50 (1901) and fresh lobster arrived from Massachusetts once a week (during prohibition); Odawa Indians and their black ash baskets; and the part the area played in the family life of the Hemingways who summered at a cottage on Walloon Lake near here.

The state rock is the Petoskey stone which is comprised of fossilized skeletons of once-living coral polyps. Our treasure hunt at the water’s edge for these brownish stones had to be called off because of rain.

Deb did not sleep well last night and wasn’t feeling tip top today, so we checked into Michigan Inn & Lodge mid-afternoon so she could have some downtime before dinner tonight. Deciding to play it on the safe side, Tom took her to urgent care and sad to report she really is ill. The rest of the day was well spent tracking down prescriptions, getting takeout, and making arrangements for Deb and Tom to head home ahead of schedule.

We are all disappointed in this unexpected turn of events after all the postponing and the detailed planning that Deb put into the trip but agree that it’s best she recover at home surrounded by their dogs, her flowers, their garden, and her things.

Saturday
MacMuffins around in our respective rooms kicked off the day followed by Dan and Tom sussing out a couple of meds that were unavailable last night. Dan and I have decide to stay on, so while the guys were out shopping I worked on logistics for the rest of the trip.

Mid-afternoon Dan and I dropped Deb and Tom at their hotel in Pellston, so they could get organized and rested up as much as possible for their trip home tomorrow. We headed east to Cross Village, population 100+/-.

Village seems a bit of an overstatement in that all we saw was a cute rock church, a couple gift shops, a post office, and a funky restaurant. The 100 year old restaurant, Legs Inn, is touted as the second most iconic restaurant in Michigan and clearly the draw. The roofline is trimmed with metal legs from old stoves, hence the name, and the interior is bedazzled with the fantastical creations made of tree roots, limbs, and driftwood created by the restaurant’s founder, Stanley Smolak. In homage to his heritage the gift shop sells primarily things from Poland, everything from chocolate to jewelry to pottery. Quite a find tucked away on the banks of the lake.

One end of The Tunnel of Trees is in Cross Village. Once we had appreciated all that the village had to offer we drove the narrow, no center line, 20 mile route along a bluff overlooking Lake Michigan under a peaceful canopy of branches.

After a quick stop at Pond Hill Farm, a real farm that offers food, live music, a huge playground, farmers market, amazing views, and a gift shop, we went on down the road to Harbor Springs. This tiny town of 2,000 boasts the deepest freshwater harbor in the Great Lakes. We snagged dessert at Tom’s Mom’s Cookies, the cutest cookie emporium on the planet, and then went on a hunt for dinner finally settling on The Paper Station for more delicious Walleye.

We’re sleeping in Petoskey again tonight.

Wednesday
We slept like there was no tomorrow and woke up charged for a wonderful day-one. The weather was beautiful which just added to our enthusiasm.

First order of business: breakfast. I tried out the hands free pancake maker at the lobby breakfast bar. With the wave of a hand I ordered up two pancakes that started as blobs of batter and within seconds dropped off a short conveyer belt as little cakes that tasted somewhere between a crepe and a Swedish pancake. Not a bad way to start the day.

Next up: Deb, Tom, and Dan headed back to the airport to check on the lost luggage and pick up the rental car. Car—yes, luggage—no.

And we’re off. With all the logistics out of the way we loaded up and headed 34 miles south to Boyne City, the fastest-growing city in Northern Michigan. The tranquil, quiet, picturesque drive was on a two-lane road bordered by lots of delicate wild flowers and countless tall trees.

Boyne City is situated along the eastern shore of Lake Charlevoix (char-le-voy) with direct access to Lake Michigan. We arrived with just enough time to stroll through the farmers market before sitting down to a delicious whitefish lunch. From there we browsed a few of the cute mom-and-pop shops and drove around a couple of the charming, long established, beautifully landscaped neighborhoods. It’s easy to understand the popularity of the area.

We are staying at Boyne Mountain Resort, a Bavarian styled Mecca for golfers in summer and skiers in winter. There is a seemingly endless supply of Lindt Lindor (my fav) chocolates that I plan to help myself to as often as I can inconspicuously pass the front desk.

United Airlines assured Dan our bags would be on Delta’s 5:30 flight into Pellston, so Dan and Deb headed that way in time to meet the plane and retrieve the bags. The plane arrived right on time but without our bags. Next flight into Pellston: 10:30 PM. Since the drive from here to there is nearly an hour the bro/sis team decided to stay in town, go to dinner, and enjoy one another’s company until 10:30. Long day for them but the mission was a success and we now have luggage and with it the promise of fresh clothes tomorrow.

All this sibling coziness left Tom and me on our own, so we decided to walk the grounds of the resort and have a salad and pizza at the resort’s take on a carefree Italian restaurant.

Thursday
With fresh clothes and a good night’s sleep we met in the lobby for the short ride to Betty’s for breakfast. Then off we went to Horton Bay General Store, established in 1876. Part of its claim to fame is that Ernest Hemingway frequented it as a boy and as a young man and was married in a small church that used to be next door. Today it is an impressive high-end deli and shop with a two-bedroom inn upstairs. It hosts music performances, book signings, and other special events.

Next stop: Lavender Hill Farm, the largest lavender farm in Michigan and home to 30 varieties of organic lavender, Italian honeybees, and a restored century-old barn. We were free to explore the beautifully landscaped grounds and wander in the fields to enjoy row after row after row of lavender.

On to Charlevoix, population 4,000-ish. It put the C in charming. We strolled the cute downtown and along the picturesque waterfront, watched the small drawbridge go up and down when water traffic necessitated it, were amazed by all the flowers, and drove past a couple of the custom homes known as mushroom houses, gnome homes, or hobbit houses of master builder Earl Young. He is known for creating homes, 26 total, that fit the site rather than forcing the landscape to accommodate the design. 

Young designed four commercial properties too, one of which, Stafford’s Weathervane, hosted us for an early dinner. Good call Deb. Dan and I tried walleye for the first time and are now fans. Built right at the water’s edge we enjoyed watching the boats going to and from Lake Michigan.

Boyne Mountain Resort is home to the recently completed SkyBridge, the longest timber-towered suspension bridge in the world. It is 118 feet off the forest floor, and runs between two mountain peaks. My fellow travelers decided to make it an early night, but I can never resist the allure of the words ‘world’s anything-est’ (tallest, shortest, cutest, oldest, newest, most famous). Just ahead of sunset I rode the chairlift to the top of one peak and slowly walked the quarter of a mile across and then back. Very few people had saved this activity for so late in the day, so I almost had the bridge to myself.

In no particular order, clean clothes, beautiful weather, great company, good food, and fun experiences made for a very nice day.

... For Real …

Michigan offers the highest payback rate in the country for recycling a can–$0.10.

Nancy Talbot, the founder of Talbots retail chain, was born in Charlevoix.

In the early 1900s Albert Loeb farmed prizewinning cattle and sold them through the Sears catalog.

Daniel Frank Gerber began manufacturing Gerber baby food in 1927 in Fremont, Michigan.

Detroit pharmacist James Vernor introduced Ginger Ale in 1866.

What a treat! Deb and Tom invited us to join them on a road trip in Michigan. Tom was raised there, and as a couple they have been back and forth many times over the years which has given them the opportunity to discover interesting new spots as well as to visit some of Tom’s family’s old haunts.

The trip was originally scheduled for 2020, but the pandemic put the kibosh to that. 2021 still seemed a little risky, and we were all too busy in 2022. We decided this was our year! Deb has planned the whole adventure down to the last detail. Lucky us.

Deb and Tom flew north and east; we flew west; and the plan was to meet for a leisurely dinner in the Detroit airport before flying the last leg to Pellston together. That plan went by the wayside early on because mechanical delays and a run-in with birds caused Deb and Tom’s initial flight to be delayed quite a bit necessitating them to make a run for their connecting flight with no time to grab lunch. Dan and I did not need to make a run for our connecting flight and had ample time for a light lunch, but a wheelchair issue on the inbound flight and an unresolvable AC issue necessitated finding a replacement aircraft which delayed our departure by two hours. Next challenge: Navigating the Detroit airport. It took us completely by surprise in that our United flight came in a full three miles from the Delta terminal. By the time we figured that out, got to the shuttle, rode the three miles, went through security, and found our concourse our travel buddies had already eaten and we had less than 20 minutes to spare. We decided to make a meal out of what was being offered in the Delta lounge and call it a day. Thankfully our one-hour connecting flight to Pellston didn’t take off until 9:15 PM. It, thankfully, was uneventful. Whoop whoop.

A word about the Pellston airport: it is the cutest small airport I have ever seen. It has the look and feel of a two-story mountain lodge with a large stone fireplace, chunky pine furniture, and taxidermized animals. Think mountain lion, bear with cubs, deer, and other small critters. There is a single luggage carrousel off to one end near the sheriff’s office. One of the three rental car desks has a sign that says ‘You are never too important to be kind.’ Another had a wooden bear holding a sign that says ‘Welcome to our neck of the woods.’ I like Michigan already.

The day held one last surprise: Dan’s and my luggage never made it out of Chicago. We did a few minutes of lost-luggage paperwork before making our way to the hotel with a small amenity kit containing a few necessities and Deb’s promise to lend us something to sleep in.

Thankfully the Pellston Lodge is only a quarter mile down the road because we are all beat. The surprises and delays made for a long but anticipation-and-excitement-building day. What does Deb have in store for us, that is the question.

... Fun Facts About Michigan …

Michigan is the only place in the world with a floating post office.
The J.W. Westcott II has been delivering mail to ships while they are still underway for 125 years.

Indian River is the home of the the Cross in the Woods, the largest crucifix in the world.

More tonnage passes though the historic locks in Sault Ste. Marie than
the Suez and Panama Canals combined.

The first air-conditioned car was manufactured in 1939 by Detroit’s Packard Motor Car Company.

On all tours going forward I’ll expect clean bus windows; a bucket of umbrellas for just in case; clean, interesting rest stops (think fish bowl in the bathroom and Shun knives for sale); hotel amenities that include sleepwear and hair ties; to-the-minute train service; and sea kelp on the breakfast buffet. I’ll be the first to admit I’m going to miss the heated seats on the fancy toilets here! Underrated on a global scale.

Dan and I were up at 5:30 AM for our ride to the Hiroshima airport at 7:00. We were offered and jumped at the chance to take an earlier flight to Tokyo which lengthened our four-hour layover to a five-hour layer, but we knew it would feel good to be pre-positioned for our flight home. We browsed the high end shops and relaxed in the ANA lounge until time to board. The lounge offered nothing other than small bags of rice crackers to go along with beer on tap, liquor, juice, sodas, coffee and tea.

Our flight went great. I watched A Man Called Otto, Weird: The Al Yankovic Story, the second half of the TV series 1883, and all of season one of The Big Brunch. Throw in a four-hour nap and a couple of meals and it felt like a down day at home.

Because of the magic of the International Dateline we landed on the East Coast at the very same time and on the very same day we left Japan after being in the air for 12.5 straight hours. Immigration, customs, and a cab ride home ended our 26-hour day and our fabulous trip to Hawaii and Japan.

Sunday

This morning we traveled along the southern San’yo coast on our way to Hiroshima which is about 250 miles from Kyoto. Our drive took us over roads that are quite simply engineering marvels. They were built through mountainous areas with one tunnel after the next and raised roadways multiple stories above the solid ground below. Hiro showed us two short films: an animated film based on a popular 12th century tale and a short biography of a famous sumo wrestler.

We were in Kurashiki, home to Japan’s finest denim, a piggy bank museum, and crazy-cute masking tape, in time for lunch, an ice cream cone, and free time. It was enjoyable to explore the Bikan district where traditional buildings such as merchant homes and old storehouses have been preserved. The town, known for the white walls of its residences and the willow trees lining the banks of the Kurashiki River, prospered in the 1600s and is thriving today.

We continued on to Hiroshima. On August 6, 1945, during World War II, an American B-29 bomber dropped the world’s first deployed atomic bomb over Hiroshima, a manufacturing center with a population of about 350,000. The explosion killed a quarter of the population instantly and tens of thousands more died over time of severe burns and radiation exposure. Besides the cost in lives, the bomb essentially wiped out the city, so what we’ll see and the places we will visit are all part of a young, redesigned, and reimagined city.

Our day ended with a visit to Hiroshima Castle, originally begun in the late 1500s by the feudal lord as the dominate feature of a castle town built at the mouth of the Ota River. Also called Carp Castle, it was beautifully reconstructed after the war and now sits smack dab in the middle of a very modern city. The castle features an impressive moat and an outside balcony at the top of the keep which offers panoramic views of the city and surrounding area. Yes, we walked up the 117 steps to enjoy the view. The interior has exhibits portraying the history of Hiroshima and the castle.

Today

Our day had a somber beginning with a visit to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. This memorial, in the center of town, is dedicated to the city’s sad legacy as the first city in the world to suffer a nuclear attack and to the memories of the bomb’s direct and indirect victims. It is home to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum with its extensive collection of artifacts from the time of the bombing and exhibits that chronicle the history of Hiroshima before and after the war. It is the most popular of Hiroshima’s destinations for international visitors as well as school fieldtrips from all over Japan.

Before leaving the park we visited the museum and the haunting and now iconic Atomic Bomb Dome, the skeletal remains of a structure that miraculously survived the August 6 attack. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well as a symbol of peace. Near the Dome is a statue dedicated to all the children orphaned, killed, and severely injured on that fateful day. School children lead the effort to collect donations in remembrance of Sadako Sasaki, a girl who suffered from leukemia as a result of the bomb. She folded a thousands cranes in the hopes that this would restore her health. Sadly it did not, but it prompted the folding of countless paper cranes in her honor. Our group left a paper crane that Hiro’s husband had prepared for us.

In the mood for a pick-me-up we were all glad to head to the ferry for the short ride to the island of Miyajima. We explored the small island and visited the Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, situated over the water. First built in 593, it is most famous for its 60 ton, 51 feet tall, cinnabar (orange-red) tori gate. At high tide the tori gate and shrine buildings seem to float on the water. The timing of our visit was perfect because it aligned with a Noh performance at the shrine. We were clueless about the storyline but enjoyed seeing the costume and mask of the main actor as well as the music accompanying his slow, purposeful movements. We strolled along Omotesando Street, the main shopping area, on the hunt for lunch and any little bobble that caught our eye. We were tempted by the local specialty, a sweet pastry shaped like a Japanese maple leaf, but the mystery of what filling was inside scared us off. We had a perfect view of the shrine from the boat as we left the dock. It was beautifully framed by the mountain in the background.

Miyajima is one of the 700+ islands in the Seto Inland Sea. Dan and I talked about being the only foreigners on our overnight cruise through the Inland Sea when we lived here.

Our day ended with a beautiful farewell dinner in the hotel. We said our goodbyes to our fellow travelers (two family groups of seven each plus a couple from Miami) and to Hiroko who we all agreed had done a fabulous job!

… Just a Few More things …

A flame of peace honoring the victims of the nuclear bombing has burned in Hiroshima since 1946.

The oleander was the first thing to bloom after the atomic blast, so it is now the official flower of Hiroshima.

The crane is the Japanese symbol of longevity and happiness.

It is compulsory to attend nine years of formal education.
Most children opt to finish high school though, and 68% go on to university.

Baseball is the number one sport in Japan. The Hiroshima Carp is the home team here.

I’ve become fascinated with these high-tech toilets! Yesterday I used one with an auto flush function and the day before the lid lifted when I entered the bathroom stall. Magic I tell you.

This morning we headed 28 miles south to the 8th century imperial capital of Nara, home to eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Nara, with a population of 370,000, is known for calligraphy brushes, India ink, persimmon sushi, pickles made from sake sediment, and tourism. 

First on our list of wows was the Buddhist temple complex Todai-ji Temple, built in 728 to mourn the death of a beloved  crown prince. The centerpiece of the complex is the huge wooden hall known as Great Buddha Hall which houses the world’s largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana. It is over 50 feet high and has certainly withstood the test of time since it was cast in 749. The wooden buildings in the shrine complex are also impressive … for their size and the age of the massive trees used in their construction. 

We made a stop at Deer Park to see some of the 1,000+ tame deer roaming freely in the peaceful park. They are considered sacred and have not been eaten even during times of war when the citizenship was starving. 

Nara’s most celebrated shrine is Kasuga Taisha. It was established at the same time as the capital and is dedicated to the deity responsible for the protection of the city. This Shinto shrine’s hallmark features are its 3,000 stone and bronze lanterns, many very old and smothered in moss. Donated by worshippers, they are lit twice a year during lantern festivals, one in early February and one in mid-August. What a stunning sight that must be. We lucked into watching part of a wedding ceremony being held in the sacred inner sanctum. The bride, groom, two officiants, and two sponsors were dressed in formal traditional wedding wear including a covering for the bride’s head and face. 

On the way back to Kyoto, we stopped at Fushimi Inari Shrine, dedicated to Inari, the god of grains. Upward of 10,000 tori gates mark the trails at this 1,200 year old pilgrimage site. These orange and black wooden gates are believed to be the division between the physical and spiritual worlds. Donated by Japanese businesses, families, and individuals, they are believed to bring prosperity. To avoid any confusion about who should be receiving the good luck, the name of the donor is prominently inscribed in black ink on the back of each gate.

We couldn’t help but notice stone statues of foxes, known as kitsune. Some had a key in their mouth (to control access to the granary), others had more than one tail (the more the better), and others wore red scarves (to indicate their allegiance to Inari and to expel demons and illness).

We enjoyed all these sites under gloomy skies and intermittent, persistent rain.

We had time to freshen up, pre-pack, and enjoy a cup of tea in our room before our group dinner at a local restaurant. After dinner we were treated to a dance performance by a beautifully dressed, 16 year old maiko (geisha apprentice). She was one year into her five year apprenticeship. After her performance she answered our questions and posed for pictures. 

…Odds and Ends…

Green tea fields are covered in thin black cloth. We saw some from the bus today. 

Nintendo started in a mom and pop shop in Kyoto. 

What has looked like smog on some days is really yellow sand blowing in from the desert of China. 

I debuted my last top this morning. It compliments the pants I’ve worn for three days and will wear until we fly home. 

Kyoto was the capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years (794 to 1868 AD). It’s a no-brainer that we wouldn’t see it all, but we really crammed a lot in.

Thursday

As the saying goes, go big or go home, and we did just that by starting our tour with one of Kyoto’s Big three: Nijo Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in 1603 by the founder of the Tokugawa military dynasty which ruled Japan from 1603 until 1868, it’s known for its beautiful garden and interior handcrafted out of Japanese cypress. Gold leaf and ornately carved transoms were prominent in the public rooms designed to impress enemies as well as friends. The huge complex consists of six connected buildings and is the only fortified palace complex left in Japan. Hiro explained the symbolism of what was painted on the gold-leafed walls. Tigers, peacocks, cherry blossoms, and evergreen trees. Everything was chosen for a reason. The halls leading from one public area to the next were built so that they squeaked with the slightest footfall. No sneaking up on the shogun when he was in town.

Next up: a brief Zen tutorial lead by a Buddhist monk. Once we had the basics down, we were invited to make ourselves comfortable on a cushion on the floor and then we proceeded to meditate for 10 minutes.

Our meditation session was followed by a Japanese tea ceremony. Tea was introduced to Japan in the 8th century by China and was used by priests and the upper class for medicinal purposes mainly. It started catching on with all social classes in the early 1300s and later tea drinking parties became popular. From the basic tea party a more refined version developed with Zen-inspired simplicity and a greater emphasis on spirituality. It is from these gatherings that the ritualized art of preparing and serving tea had its origins in the 1500s. The protocol of a tea ceremony is defined down to exact hand movements, is choreographed, and requires many years of study to master. A full, formal tea ceremony is an hours-long event that starts with a multi-course meal followed by a bowl of thick green tea made from powdered matcha and ends with a bowl of thin green tea. Today the ritualized tea ceremony is practiced as a hobby, is much abbreviated, and is limited to the enjoyment of a bowl of thin tea. All of this was explained to us before we were served a small bowl of matcha, whisked to a frothy brew. It was mildly bitter, so we were offered a sweet cracker to prepare our pallets for the tea.

We topped off our day with two fun walkabouts. The first was in the 400-year old Nishiki Market, also known as Kyoto’s Kitchen, where we browsed the shops, restaurants, and food stalls known for their specialty items and seasonal goodies.

Geisha are one of the most iconic and exotic symbols of Japan with their elaborate makeup, hairstyles, and exquisite kimonos. Geisha districts, known as hanamachi, were established during the 17th century. Before calling it a day we strolled around Gion, Kyoto’s most famous hanamachi. We learned that a girl hoping to become a geisha in Kyoto must first serve a six-year apprenticeship focused on studying the many skills required for the role: singing, dancing, playing traditional musical instruments, the art of conversation, and the formal hosting skills expected of a geisha. Today’s apprenticeships begin at the age of 15. The very best of these female performance artists / entertainers / hostesses have always been highly paid, received lavish gifts, and entertained the top tier of the business community, generally at teahouses and social events. Unmarried, they are associated with and live in or near their okiya or geisha lodging house. A number of okiya remain today. Walking the narrow streets in the Gion district reminded me of reading Memoirs of a Geisha and watching The Makanai: Cooking for a Maiko House (Netflix). A maiko, by the way, is what apprentices are called.

We finished our day shopping at the upscale Isetan department store followed by dinner in the hotel bar.

Today

Kyoto’s Arashiyama district was our focus today. Our first stop was at the Zen temple of Tenryu-ji, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Originally built in 1339, the temple’s buildings were repeatedly lost in fires and wars over the centuries, so most of what we saw today dates from the relatively recent Meiji Period which you might recall (giggle) ran from 1868-1912. Unlike the temple buildings, Tenryu-ji’s sprawling Zen garden amazingly survived the centuries in its original form. It features a central pond surrounded by rocks, pine trees, and the forested mountains. It is considered to be one of the finest gardens in Kyoto.

In total contrast to Tenryu-ji’s garden, but no less stunning, was our next stop: a bamboo forest. The famous grove of soaring stalks were beautiful in their simplicity. Some say plan your visit on a windy day because the rustle of the stalks and the sight of them swaying back and forth is mesmerizing. We strolled leisurely along the main path amazed by the appeal of something so simple. The grove is a pubic space that is free and open 24 hours a day.

The temple to beat all temples …if you are into gold… is hands down Kinkaku-ji Temple with its Golden Pavilion, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built as the retirement villa by a shogun who stipulated in his will that it become a Zen temple after his death (1408). Each of the three floors of the temple represents a different style of architecture. The first floor was built in a style used for palace buildings from 794 to 1185 and has natural wood pillars and white plaster walls. The second floor was built in the style used in samurai residences, and has its exterior completely covered in gold leaf. The top floor, built in the style of a Chinese Zen hall, is gilded inside as well as outside and is capped with a golden phoenix! This beautiful building has burned down numerous times over the centuries including in 1950 when it was set on fire by a fanatic monk. The present structure dates to 1955.

We did a dive into traditional culture today also. Strong handsome dudes took us all for a rickshaw ride; we dressed in kimono and posed for pictures; and two talented musicians gave us a concert highlighting the shamisen and the koto. The shamisen is a three-string plucked instrument that resembles a guitar or a banjo and the koto is a 74 inch (yep, longer than six feet) wooden instrument with 13 strings that sounded like a harp to me.

Our day was jam packed when you add a delicious lunch and a matcha and vanilla swirl ice cream cone to all the other fun activities and stops. We opted for a drink and snacks in the bar in lieu of a proper dinner and then headed to the room to get organized for tomorrow.

… Oh Really? …

Kyoto is the sixth most populous urban center in Japan.
For centuries, however, it was the largest city in the country and one of the most populous in the entire world.
Few cities in Europe exceeded or matched its 16th century population of half a million.

The first geisha …men, known as taikomochi… appeared in the 13th century.
Women entered the picture in the 18th century.
A number of non-Japanese women from China, Romania, Ukraine, and Peru have become successful geisha. Perhaps the most famous is Liza Dalby, an American anthropologist who moved to Japan in 1975.

Tokyo still has six hanamachi districts.

Starbucks and 7-Eleven have been everywhere we’ve been
plus a few Wendy’s (called Wendy’s First Kitchen), McDonald’s, and one Seattle’s Best.