Christmas Eve morning was spent sailing the Middle Rhine, home to vineyard-blanketed hills and the largest concentration of Medieval castles on the river. Some on the right, some on the left, some grand, some in very sad shape, and some converted into luxury hotels. In their heyday noblemen built them to oversee trade, collect tolls, and defend kingdoms. A few of our fellow passengers got all decked out in their winter gear and stayed on deck the whole time no matter the wind or mist; we, on the other hand, ran in and out when a castle came into view. We also spotted the sculpture of Lorelei, a woman of such beauty that she reputedly caused sailors to wreck their ships by distracting them as she lay sunbathing nude along the river’s edge. Naughty girl!

The commentary that kept us in the loop all morning explained the small, fake castle facades we had noticed along the river. The story goes something like this: The Allies agreed not to target castles and palaces during World War II. Leveraging that lucky break Hitler ordered the entrances and exits to railway tunnels along the river to be embellished with castle-esque facades and, by golly, it worked. From the air with the technology of the mid 1940s these fakes could not be distinguished from the real thing leaving the railroad lines and tunnels intact.

The castles were behind us and lunch was over by the time we docked in Koblenz at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers. We quickly got organized for our walking tour of the small city. Right near the dock were three panels from the Berlin Wall that formed a memorial to the reunification of German at the end of the Cold War. There seemed to be no explanation for the giant thumb monument near the church. In the spirit of the thumb, there is a clock tower that has a man’s face on it. His eyes go right to left with each tick of the clock and his tongue sticks out three time every 15 minutes. Roosters on church spires, whimsical statues of townsfolk, and a roof with 24 windows doubling as an advent calendar are evidence that these locals must be fun folk. We lit a candle for Josie’s Aunt Jerry in the church, as we had done all along the way, and headed back to the ship. As we were dressing for dinner church bells all over town were calling worshipers to evening services.

Some of our fellow passengers brought seasonal spiritwear (a Santa dress, hats, sweaters, vests) which they either debuted at breakfast and wore all day or saved for dinner. We are keeping our Santa hats and the ones we brought to share with Walter and Cleone for tomorrow, but I did bring a special outfit that I worked around a buffalo checked vest that Deb and Tom gave me this Christmas. Just imagine the look of shock on my face and Cleone’s when we met in the hall looking like our mothers dressed us alike in coordinating black and white buffalo plaid! It was especially funny since we had both worn red and black two night ago. Matching outfits or not, we headed off to get our Christmas Eve dinner of veal schnitzel.

… SO WHAT …

Lederhosen originated in France. The highest quality britches are made of deer hide.

The location of the tie on a dirndl indicates the wearer’s marital status.

On this day in 1818 Stille Nacht (Silent Night) was sung for the first time (in Austria).

Koblenz celebrated its 2000th anniversary in 1992.

Otto Griebling, a Koblenz native, was a circus clown who performed
with the Ringling Bros. and Barnum and Bailey Circuses.
He was one of only four clowns given the title Master Clown by Irvin Feld.

We woke up a short drive from Heidelberg, home to John Deere Europe. Our very entertaining French guide started our tour with a little laugh. After the last war men were looking for women with tractors. In small print: please send picture of tractor. On a more serious note he shared fun facts about Germany. For example, it is one of three countries (along with North Korea and Afghanistan) that has no speed limit on large sections of its autobahn. Germany is roughly the size of Montana and has 83 million citizens. With a birth rate of 1.6, it is in the process of figuring out how to integrate much needed ‘qualified immigrants.’ We came into town by the Marriott Hotel which has joined the urban honey movement by placing hives on its roof. He ended with another joke: How do you say 12:20 in German. Answer: 12:15. Grin.

Before we knew it we were offloading at the entrance of Heidelberg’s famous red sandstone castle. A  structure of some sort has been on the site since the early 1200s. It was added onto, burned, embellished, destroyed by war, damaged by lightning, expanded, hit by lightning again, damaged by war, more fire, and on and on. It slowly morphed into a gigantic fortress home with the plainest of architectural features at one glance and built-to-impress features at another. The imposing ruins perched 330 feet above the river dominate the hillside and offer stunning views of the river and city below.

In a cellar under the castle sits a gigantic 18th century wooden keg, the Heidelberg Tun, and its baby sister. At 23 feet high and 28 feet wide, it’s the world’s largest wine barrel with a capacity of 58,000 gallons! We got to see it and climbed the wooden stairs to stand on the platform atop of the Tun.

We had a couple hours free to roam the streets and squares of Heidelberg. Their Christmas market was being dismantled and required a crane to load dismantled pieces of the largest pavilions. We popped into a store dedicated to gummy candy: gummy pizza, gummy fries, gummy sushi, and of course bears in all flavors. We were on the lookout and managed to find Heidelberger Studentenkuss, the chocolate that has been made for the local university students since 1863 with its trademark silhouette of two people nose to nose. Its nickname Kissing Chocolate seems appropriate. A visit to the beautiful Church of the Jesuits brought the surprise of the day: a contemporary creche with a modern cityscape background, two paper mache popes, Mother Teresa, sheep herders, demonstrators, and biblical characters. None of us could find Baby Jesus or his manger. To confuse us even more, above the door on the way out was a lifesize, apple red, mechanical, female holy ghost with flaming hair and a little angel marionette in one hand.

Being back on board and cruising lazily down the river by early afternoon left us time to enjoyed a leisurely lunch, tour the wheelhouse, and attend a demonstration on how to prepare Rudesheim coffee. This local favorite is served in a special porcelain glass and is a mixture of coffee, brandy, sugar, whipped cream, and dark chocolate. Delicious was our verdict.

Late in the afternoon we started passing a few of the castles that have made this cruise route so popular. Some in ruins and some in wonderful shape. I Googled our location and then searched castles, so I’d know exactly where to look when the time came. Some of the castles still had intact toll stations.

We docked in Rüdesheim am Rhein for the night. A walk along the river led us to town. We enjoyed the exercise and fresh air before another delightful dinner onboard. An accomplished local glassblower demonstrated a few tricks of his trade before we all headed to bed after yet another satisfying day.

… Heidelberg …

Sunrise was at 8:19.

Heidelberg is home to the oldest university in Germany which dates back to 1386.
Twelve professors have Nobel Prizes!

The Heidelberg jaw, a fossilized human jawbone probably 500,000 years old,
was found in the vicinity in 1907.

The city was almost completely spared allied bombings during World War II.

… Rudesheim …

Sunset was at 4:29.

Rudesheim boasts one of the most quirky museums in Europe: Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet. Self-playing instruments are on display ranging from fragile music boxes to a gigantic piano-orchestrion to a snuff box with a musical songbird to Bernhard Dufner’s band of 27 automatic dolls and mechanical violins.

We woke up on the German side of the Rhine which is right across the water from France. After breaking our fast with the lightest of meals Dan and I joined our tour group, crossed the bridge into France, and drove to Strasbourg. It was Sunday, so traffic was light.

Our guide was fabulous and did a wonderful job of explaining how it is that this area known as Alsace is so unique. Short story: Between 1648 and 1945 the area flip flopped between Germany and France six times. The people were not relocated, just the national affiliation. Our guide’s grandparents were born when Alsace was part of France, so they studied French, ate French, and followed French customs. Her parents were born when Alsace was part of Germany, so they spoke French at home, studied in German at school, and followed German customs. Our guide was born after World War II when the area was once again French, so she spoke French with her grandparents, German and French with her parents, and studied in French at school. In Alsace beer and wine are equally popular as are sauerkraut and foie gras. The locals are very comfortable being a mix of the two and happily enjoy the longest peacetime in Europe’s history. A poignant reminder of the past is the Monument aux Morts de Strasbourg which is a mourning mother, symbolizing Strasbourg, holding her two sons. One of them died as a French soldier, the other one a German soldier. In death they are holding hands for reconciliation.

Strasbourg is home to the Council of Europe with its 47 member states. This organization dates back to 1949 and has as its charter overseeing peace, human rights, and democracy. We couldn’t help but notice its Court of Human Rights looks like the front of a huge cruise ship. The official seat of the European Parliament is also in Strasbourg. Add a brand new Russian Orthodox Church, 1,000 breeding pairs of storks, a sophisticated tram system that runs on tracks laid for the most part in grassy plots (to muffle the noise), lots of bikes, and an old city center closed to cars in the afternoon, and you have quite an impressive place. Spared heavy bombing during World War II, it has more original old German buildings than large swaths of Germany.

Our tour took us mainly to the ultra-charming old town and its six (or was it seven) Christmas markets with stall after stall of local arts, handicrafts, and popular Christmas treats. Even the rain and cold did not dampen our delight with the charm of the old city center with it cobblestone streets, wooden houses, and picturesque canals. We strolled between the markets, in and out of shops, through the large squares, into the churches, and up and down small alleys with impeccably maintained half timber homes and businesses. Elaborate Christmas decorations were everywhere.

Not keen on getting up early and having been to Strasbourg before, Walter and Cleone grabbed a cab and went into town later with the sole mission of buying nutcrackers. We were all back on the Viking Mani in time for a late lunch. Dan dozed away the afternoon while Walter, Cleone, a new acquaintance from Arizona (Barbara), and I enjoyed tea and cookies. Barbara and I even stayed on to watch the lebkuchen (gingerbread) making demonstration complete with warm samples fresh from the oven and a quick tour of the galley where food for the 175 guests and 50 crew is prepared and stored.

With a late lunch, tea and cookies, and the promise of a sumptuous buffet supper I decided to take a brisk stroll along the water’s edge before dinner. The air was crisp and the rain had stopped. The walkway, bridges in front of and behind the ship, and our ship were lit up, so everywhere I looked was cheerful.

Tonight’s German buffet with its 60+ items did not disappoint. Bavarian table decorations, German wine and beer, giant pretzels, and staff decked out in traditional Bavarian clothing added a bit of flair to the meal. I am not a big fan of German food but found the pork and spaetzle worth a second visit to the buffet line.

Our day ended with Cleone and me going back to our rooms to prep for tomorrow and our guys staying in the common area (the lounge) where they decorated an ornament for the tree, enjoyed refreshments (say what?), and participated in a singalong with the crew. Yes, their participation was a surprise to us too!

... Strasbourg Trivia …

Strasbourg is known as the birthplace of foie gras, invented in 1780.

For 227 years (until 1874) the city’s sandstone cathedral
was the tallest building in the world.

The symbol of the city is the stork.

In 1988, UNESCO recognized the oldest portion of the city (where we were today),
Strasbourg-Grand-Ill, as a World Heritage Site.
This was the first time an entire city center was designated.

Like elsewhere in France, school is mandatory and free from ages three to sixteen.
For those who qualify, college is also free.

Situated among rolling vineyards between the Rhine River and the Black Forest sits the river port town of Breisach. We tied up to the dock in the wee hours of the morning. Greeting me when I opened the curtain a few hours later were half a dozen large white swans, no doubt looking for treats (which I later swiped off the breakfast buffet).

Our wakeup was at 7:00 followed by a lovely breakfast buffet and a race for the 8:30 bus headed to the fir forests of Schwarzwald (the Black Forest) in the southwest corner of Germany. The day was gray and misty which seemed somehow fitting for our destination: the land of Hansel and Gretel, Little Red Riding Hood, Rumpelstiltskin, Snow White, Black Forest ham, and accordion music. We drove through quaint, impeccably clean villages and passed small farms, thatched roofs, grazing horses, vineyards on hills so steep they have to be hand harvested, and egrets and buzzards feasting in the plowed fields. The trees were bare but the rolling pastures were a beautiful green. We drove passed tiny patches of snow and saw some on the distant mountain tops but nothing to brag about. One small waterfall, creek, and spring after the next fed into a meandering stream near the water’s edge. The drive was beautiful and the commentary from the guide good.

We had one stop on our outing: Hofgut Sternen. This mock Black Forest village is comprised of a few traditional buildings where we were on our own to enjoy a Black Forest cake assembly demonstration, cuckoo clock presentation, and a glass works demonstration. All were enjoyable.

We were back on the ship for lunch. Once our bellies were full again, we decided to ask the concierge to arrange a cab for the four of us, so we could check out the Christmas market in Colmar, France. Lucky me, I was seated in the front in case I had to use my rusty French, and the three musketeers where crammed in the back. The driver spoke wonderful English, so I rode in comfort and enjoyed the company of the driver whose plan it is to one day spend at least a month with her husband in the U.S. She gave us some hot tips on which direction to walk, what foods to snack on, and a couple of sights not to miss. She even offered to come back to pick us up.

Walter and Cleone had heard that the medieval lanes and squares of Colmar were cute and picturesque, but we were not prepared for How cute and picturesque. We were under its spell from the moment we walked across the bridge and saw our first centuries-old pastel-colored half timber homes at the water’s edge. The town, seemingly intent on pleasing the crowd, had gone all out decorating. Entire building facades had Christmas displays; some roofs featured large decorations; special candies and baked good were being sold; a large animated nativity scene nestled in straw was impressive; and hot wines were on offer to wash down the food in all the cute market stalls. We took it all in (to include a picture with Santa) and had a delightful couple of hours. As promised, our cab was at the meeting point for the ride back to the ship.

A quick shower and change and we were ready for our evening orientation, dinner, and Christmas concert by a local choral group. Bed was a welcome sight after a fun day on our feet.

… Black Forest …

A recipe for Black Forest cake was first published in 1929.

The Romans gave the area its name.

Primitive forerunners of the cuckoo clock can be traced to the mid-17th century
when residents of the area brought in extra income by crafting and selling clocks
they made during the winter months.
By 1808 there were 582 clock peddlers and 688 clockmakers in the area!

… Breisach …

Breisach boasts Europe’s largest wine cellars. They have a capacity of 160 million liters.

Eighty-five percent of Breisach was destroyed by Allied bombs
in the last days of World War II.
After the war the town was meticulously rebuilt in the old style.

Our guys planned to be with their ladies and their in-laws this Christmas, so Dan proposed we take Christmas on the road. Never having been on a river cruise, we chose to give it a try and for no good reason chose the Rhine River.

Our seven-and-a-half-hour flight to Frankfurt went smoothly as did making our connection to Basel, Switzerland, located at the farthest navigable point of the Rhine. Even after ironing out a little hiccup with the transfer we had pre-arranged, we were on the dock by 11:00 a.m. We were surprised to see our long ship butted up to another Viking ship necessitating boarding the first ship and walking straight through it to board ours. Very clever! Anyway, we were aboard the Viking Mani and in our room unpacking by 11:00 a.m. Our friends of almost 44 years, Walter and Cleone, knocked on our door before noon ready to take on what was left of the day. They had arrived in Basel two days early and had already done some exploring on their own.

A cautionary tale: Basel is located where three countries meet.
When leaving the Basel airport, arriving passengers
have a choice of exiting into Germany, France, or Switzerland.
Not aware of this, Walter and Cleone just popped out of the first exit
they saw and found themselves in line to get a cab into France.
They shared this story with us ahead of time, so we were careful
to pay attention and exit into Switzerland. I digress.

We four amigos grabbed a quick lunch and then joined a walking tour of the old part of the city. Nestled into town squares were two small Christmas markets with a variety of stalls: some simple (temporary wooden boxes with a pop-up front), some elaborate (windows, a door), and some charming (electric train sets, moose heads, huge polar bears). They were bustling with last minute shoppers and those stopping by for refreshments. Think gluhwein. We slowly window shopped (metaphorically speaking) our way through both markets.

We stopped at a centuries-old cloistered church, Basler Munster, with its red sandstone exterior and beautiful colored tile roof. I was intrigued by the courtyard sculpture of a death mask in memory of those worn to prevent the spread of the plague in days gone by. Near the mask was an overlook with pretty views of the river. Below us was one of four remaining old-style river crossings where passengers can still be pulled across for the budget buster of 1.65 Euro.

A traditional Swiss meal of veal stew, rosti potatoes, vegetables, and plum tart put the finishing touches on our first day! During dinner we pushed away from the dock, or should I say the other ship, and headed north toward the North Sea. We were going through the first of eleven locks as we headed to bed.

… Rhine Facts …

The Rhine flows through six countries: Switzerland, the Principality of Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, France, and The Netherlands.

In the 14th century there were 62 customs stations along the Rhine
making it an expensive ordeal to ship goods the length of the river.

The Rhine originates in the Swiss Alps and empties into the North Sea.

The Rhine is 765 miles long.

Many of the castles lining the shores were built by the Romans.
I can’t seem to get away from those Romans!

With the luxury of a late departure Matt, Emily, and Dan enjoyed a lie-in while Murphy, Josie, and I check out one of the well-marked trails on the property. After passing a whole lot of fluffy white sheep and their frisky lambs, we merry wanderers followed a well-marked trail through the cork forest. It was effortless to tell which trees had been harvested because the cork below branch level had been stripped away. A number was painted on each stripped trunk indicating when it was last harvested.

The sleepers and the walkers rallied late in the morning for our transfer to Lisbon, a 90-minute drive. The afternoon was intentionally left unstructured, so in the spirit of Black Friday we shopped the afternoon away. We decided to do our Christmas gift exchange by buying one another gifts of our choice. First stop: the tiniest of tiny leather glove stores, Luvaria Ulisses. Think two people max plus the sales lady. Matt and I each selected gloves. Christmas shopping game on! We found two Portugal-products-only shops where Murphy, Emily, Dan, and I made selections, and a bedroom shop and a department store where Josie made her choices. A unique store where no purchases were made was in a luxurious converted stable with cobblestone floors, foo foo ceilings, and feeding troughs.

A late lunch at the opulent Palacio Chiado made our last meal in country a memorable one. The restaurant is housed in a palace that dates back to 1781. Fun fact: the same dude that built Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra (think hidden initiation wells) carried out the last major artistic alterations to the palace. Marble stairs, stained glass, filigree ceilings with elaborate paintings, and a life-size winged gold lion hanging from the ceiling of the bar combined to made quite a statement. As expected, our meal was delicious.

We strolled slowly back to our hotel, Memmo Alfama, after everyone had their fill of popping in and out of stores. After dropping our coats and gifts in our rooms we met in the bar for a farewell drink. Josie had introduced us to the idea of the ‘one word close’ earlier in the trip, so we decided to end our wonderful week by each offering a one word close. My word was love; Matt chose family; Josie’s word was legacy; Dan’s was happiness; Emily’s was blessed, and Murphy chose thankful.

We said our goodbyes in the bar because we were all going separate ways at different times the following morning. Murf and Josie had a 5:30 flight necessitating a pre-dawn ride to the airport. Matt and Emily flew at 8:30, so they saw the sun rise in the car. My flight home was at 11:00 and Dan headed to Vienna at 2:30 in the afternoon on his way to the Middle East on business.

… Put a Cork in It …

The bark from a cork oak regenerates every nine years.

Cork oak trees can be harvested for the first time when they are 25 years old.

As the weather moves from cold to warm, the trees “sweat.” During this narrow three-week window each year it is possible to separate the cork from the inner bark.

Pigs are rotated from section to section of oak forests, so they can feast on calorie-laden acorns that have fallen to the ground. The delicacy of acorn-fed pork is very much a tradition in Portugal (and Spain). We tried it and thought it was pretty terrific.

 

Happy Thanksgiving!

After helping ourselves to what we wanted from a huge breakfast spread laid out just for the six of us, we jumped in the van for the short ride to a seaside stable. We were surprised to pass rice fields but not surprised to pass vineyards. Resident storks were feasting in the rice fields but had no interest in the vines.

No one admitted it ahead of time, but as we were being assigned a horse and figuring out how to mount we slowly started tossing out casual comments about how nervous we were since none of us are riders and the horses had English (no horns) saddles. Come to find out we all had a case of why-didn’t-I-speak-up-earlier? Before anyone managed to chickened out, however, we were saddled up, had our stirrups adjusted, were coached on how to communicate with our trusty steeds, and were blazing a trail in a single file behind our Portuguese leader and his Arabian stallion. The horses were really good and did not give us any trouble, so we all relaxed after the first 15 minutes or so. Murphy and Matt took pictures and shot fun and funny videos, but I did not let go of the reins for a moment. Our route took us onto a deserted beach for part of the ride where we made the first tracks of the day on the damp sand. A magical experience and a luxury of traveling off season. The coastal scenery was beautiful and the weather cooperative. With the tiniest bit of assistance we all managed to get off our horses at the end of an enjoyable two-hour ride.

At almost every meal Josie has commented that so much food is offered it’s like one Thanksgiving dinner after the next. Today proved no exception. By the time we returned to the corral chicken was cooking on the wood-burning grill. Sausage and blood chorizo (delicious! I am shocked to say) were soon added followed by steak. All the while we sat in the shade of a pine tree enjoying cocktails and snacks. The sausage and chorizo were served first followed by the chicken, steak, salad, and the best beans and rice I have ever eaten. Fruit was offered for dessert. We felt like authentic drugstore cowfolk with enamelware, checkered cloth napkins, and wood-handled flatware. What tickled us the most were the enamelware espresso mini-mugs.

One of three communities of resident dolphins in all of Europe lives year round in the Sado Estuary south of Lisbon. Our second adventure of the day was a chilly, wet catamaran ride in the estuary in search of the small pod. We launched from Troia Marina. Our guide explained that the pod of a couple dozen is about half the size it was when the first dolphins were identified (by their unique dorsal fins) in 1981. The sad projection is that once dredging begins in support of future development in the area they will disappear altogether. We were hoping for some frisky Hollywood antics like flips, spins, and spirals, but once our 75-foot catamaran stopped near the pod we had to settle for graceful glides on the water’s surface with their fins dipping in and out. We watched for a half hour and then toured the estuary. Low gray cloud cover and a light mist added an air of mystery to the large estuary. On our way back to the dock we passed the secluded, stately,  five-story Palácio da Comenda mansion where Jackie Kennedy took refuge with her children after President Kennedy was assassinated.

Our last stop of the day was an old, colorful, anything-goes fishing dock on the Sado River. We were brave enough to walk out on the brand new, sturdy, zigzagging main walkway, but there was no way we were venturing out on the small walks leading off it;  they were narrow and looked so uneven, rickety, and unstable. Colorfully painted boats were tied up along them, however, so apparently some folks are brave enough to tippy toe out there. Sheds and storage areas were haphazardly placed, some unpainted and leaning and others whimsically painted in a hodgepodge of random colors. One was stripped, one said Summer of Love, one had the outline of a Gumby kind of guy in a top hat, and another one had a triangular hazard sign and two framed pictures hung near its red door. We watched the sunset from the cute (no doubt not what they were going for) dock and then headed back to the B&B for a delicious pork loin and sweet potato dinner.

… Trivia …

Scotland and Ireland are home to the other pods
of resident dolphins in Europe.

Palácio da Comenda was once a regal palace that hosted Portuguese
royalty and French aristocracy. It is now abandoned with parts in complete ruin, shattered windows, and graffiti everywhere.

Armando acted as our guide today and Nuno drove. They picked us and our luggage up at 8:00 for our transfer to the Alentejo coast to enjoy some hiking. It’s the season for rain, but other than yesterday we have not had to break out rain gear. We were hoping for the same luck today. The god of make-the-travelers-happy was smiling on us because we had perfect weather.

One other couple is all we had to share the trail with and we let them pass early on, so we could feel like celebrity, all-to-ourselves hikers. We were on the beach for awhile, but mostly we were on low sandy rises with beautiful views of the Atlantic and the undulating coastline ahead. Portugal has done a wonderful job of keeping development off this part of the coast. Vegetation seems to be thriving. Everyone’s favorite overlook was hundreds of feet above the water where pelicans had established large nests and waves were crashing violently against the cliff.

Cork was everywhere (barstools, candle koozies, trays) at the local tavern where we had lunch. We savored the food and in fact didn’t leave the table until 4:00. One starter we had never had before was what I’ll call a bacon, egg, and toast toss. My best recipe guess would be: toast stale bread cubes until they are essentially croutons, add cooked onion, garlic, ham or bacon, and top with a couple of over-medium eggs. Toss and serve. The main course was fish and macaroni soup (a first) and fish stew cooked in a special round copper pot with a hinged lid. After an assortment of desserts we were offered fresh figs and a large cork koozie full of walnuts in the shell. Nut crackers were provided, but we were also coached on how to crack the walnuts with our bare hands. Hint: you have to do two at a time.

We waddled out of there groaning and piled into the van for the short ride to the quaint town of Vila Nova de Milfontes. It’s an off-the-beaten-path resort town that hums in the summer. We had the cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings, and scenic views all to ourselves. In fact the streets were so empty it looked like a pristine movie set waiting for the film crews to arrive. We visited a couple of monuments, a mini-castle with a drawbridge and moat, and eventually found ourselves back in the van enjoying coastal views on our way to tonight’s lodging.

We arrived after dark at our homebase for two nights: Herdade das Barradas da Serra (HBS), a B&B on a fifth generation active farm in the middle of a cork oak forest. We dropped our stuff in our rooms and headed straight for the fireplace and stove in the lodge. We had the place to ourselves and posted pictures and caught up on email and texts while our dinner was being prepared. The table was set with cork placemats and the napkins were tied with raffia and fresh rosemary. We were eating again at 7:30 and enjoyed the fire until 9:30. Life is good!

… Observations …

There’s no way handrails are mandated. In brand new as well as old places
we made our way up and down stairs with no hint of a rail.

The main course can be the smallest part of the meal. Starters can include salad, scrambled eggs, bread, cheese, cured meats, olives, jams, and fish.

The roads are in as good a shape as ours any day.
Country roads often do not have shoulders.

Portugal is clean! No random trash anywhere.

We saw lots of beautiful, often-friendly feral cats and one (of many we were told) shelter
large enough to hold a few cats. Notice I avoided saying ‘cat house.’

Vintage trams are one of the iconic sights in Lisbon. Since we had a late start today Murphy figured out how to use the tram and chose a short circle trip that gave us the experience. Without a day pass the fare was three euro. After a leisurely breakfast Armando picked us and our luggage up for the two hour ride to Evora, a town steeped in Roman and medieval heritage, about 90 minutes from Lisbon.

The Romans were the first to settle Evora, building its wall and leaving behind the ruins of a temple. The city’s golden age came in the 1400s when Portugal’s kings chose it for their home. It boasts the second oldest university in the country, a cathedral, convent, well-maintained town center, and a museum. Our focus was on two other attractions however: the Capela dos Ossos and Almendres Cromlech.

The small, unassuming Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones) is part of the Igreja de Sao Francisco church complex. The main entrance to the Chapel of Bones greets visitors with this inscription: “We, the bones that are here, await yours.” The intimate chapel is the final resting place of hundreds of bodies, all exhumed by necessity from the city’s graveyards in the 16th century. Their bones, 5,000 in all, were respectfully incorporated into every aspect of the chapel’s interior. They were intricately cast into the cement from floor to ceiling. Skulls line the roof, walls, and columns. The beautiful ceiling and stunning alter in gold, white, and aqua at the end of the chapel are beautifully and subtly lit, so the bones and skulls were unbelievably not the first things we noticed.

We visited the ancient site of Almendres Cromlech in the pouring rain! A feat because it is only accessible from a one-and-a-half lane dirt road through a cork forrest. Built over several different periods between 5000 and 4000 BC, these Neolithic (later part of the Stone Age) structures remained undiscovered until 1966. The 95 almond-shaped, lichen-covered, boulder-sized stones are arranged in two concentric rings–an eastern circle and a larger one in the west. Many of the stones seem to have been positioned to align with the moon, sun, and stars. Some of the huge stones, many taller than anyone in our group, have carvings on them of circles, spirals, crescents, dimples, and inverted shepherds’ crooks.

We stayed the night in Albergaria do Calvario, better known as ADC Evora, tucked inside the city walls. We were surprised to learn that the couple who own the hotel is comprised of an American husband and a Brazilian wife. They provided us with a lovely lunch before we explored their fine town and made reservations for us at their favorite restaurant for dinner: Taberna Tipica Quarta-Feira. It was on a side street off the main drag and so unassuming we almost walked passed it. We all agreed it might have been the best of the fabulous meals we had had so far. And that is saying a lot because all we have done is eat wonderfully prepared food. We were told there would be no need to order, we were expected and food would be prepared for us. Pork cheeks and pork neck were the main course. Between courses we entertained ourselves answering questions from the conversation cards I brought along.

We were grateful for the walk back to the hotel after dinner. We were the only ones on the quiet, wet, cobbled streets. An ancient aqueduct was embedded into the street for part of the walk back. We all agreed it was the perfect end to another wonderful day.

… So What … 

Tipping is not expected in restaurants.

Northwest Portugal is the only place in the world that produces Vinho Verde.
This green wine can be made white, rose, and red. We enjoyed it as often as it was offered.

Portugal was the first country to use a single electronic toll system on its highways. We used them when we were on toll roads.

Pointing is considered bad manners in Portugal.

Portuguese marmelada is a thick, copper-red spread produced out of quince.
It’s nothing at all like its cousin, British marmalade. We loved it.

 

After too little sleep, we grabbed a really light breakfast and were out the door by 8:30 for a scenic, one-hour drive to the village of Sintra nestled in the pine-covered hills north and west of Lisbon. A longtime royal sanctuary, it is dotted with 19th century pastel-colored palaces, estates, and villas built in an unexpected blend of Moorish, Manueline (what the heck?), and Romanticist styles. Sintra’s unique architecture and history has landed it on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

We visited two estates with expansive gardens: Quinta da Regaleira and Monserrate. Downton Abbey fans will appreciate the fact that life in the stunning estates of Sintra pretty much paralleled life for the Crawleys outside London.

Quinta da Regaleira was built in the early 1900’s by a man with wealth beyond measure and a very imaginative architect and landscape architect. The grand house, situated on a rise, is split over five floors and has an ornate gothic façade with fairytale flair, gargoyles and all. Personal chapels were the style of the day, so there was a small, beautiful one on the grounds with red Templar crosses laid into the mosaic floor. We enjoyed the inside of the house, opulent stables, tennis court, and expansive garden with its grottoes and fountains. We were especially intrigued by the initiation wells. They are actually hidden, underground, circular, stone towers lined with stairs. In spite of what the name implies, they never served as water sources. Instead, they were used for ceremonial purposes having to do with spiritual enlightenment and mysticism. A large, heavy, stone door pivots open and shut at the secret entrance to each well insuring that only those intended to use the wells and the tunnels that shoot off of them are allowed access. Light as well as visitors enter from the top of the 88-foot deep well we walked down. Best of all there were no crowds what so ever, so we went down twice exploring different tunnels each time. In our group the well was a fan favorite

After our second trip down the well we strolled the gardens and were led by our terrific guide, Teresa, to a break in the trees where a delicious picnic lunch was set up for us, catered by Arturo. We had had so much fun and spent so much time together yesterday it was almost like seeing an old friend. Mariana was there too. It was the loveliest picnic I’ve ever had. Think cloth napkins, hot soup, table cloth, wine glasses, home-roasted almonds, cheese, chicken, an assortment of bread, and a special local dessert.

The second garden property we visited was Monserrate Palace. We roamed the garden with its endless imported plants: ferns from Australia, redwoods from California, cacti from Mexico. The terrain is naturally hilly plus, where needed, elevations had been increased by bringing in tons and tons of natural material to create an even more exaggerated artificial garden designed to look totally natural. Unexpected was a very believable fake ruin that was the cornerstone of one area of the garden. It’s semi-overgrown and moss covered, no doubt just as the landscape architect planned it over a hundred years ago. An outdoor laundry room also took us by surprise with its stone sinks and built-in washboards. The most stunning aspect of the property, however, was the house. After strolling around the lush garden we approached the house from a large pond at the bottom of an expansive, slopping lawn. We looked up and looming in front of us was a huge summer retreat designed in a stunning blend of Arabic, gothic, Moorish, and Indian architectural styles. There were beautiful carved doors, stone floors, marble filigree panels on top of marble filigree panels, marble columns, a dumb waiter, a massive kitchen, and lots of bedrooms. Just like Quinta da Regaleira, the property slowly became rundown and neglected after the owners could no longer afford to keep it up. The furnishing had long ago been slowly sold off leaving the rooms virtually empty but no less grand. Teresa shared her little secret with us that the property, now refurbished, had become so neglected that as a teenager she and her friends used to climb the walls and walk around the inside of the house.

After lingering too long, asking too many questions, and taking an unprecedented number of picture we got back to the hotel two hours later than anticipated after a foggy drive. We had a light dinner in the hotel and headed to bed early.

… For the Insatiably Curious … 

Portuguese Jesuit missionaries introduced tempura to Japan.

Pastel de nata was created in the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon. THANK YOU clever monks is all I’ve got to say!

Portuguese is the official language of nine countries.

Portugal accounts for 50% of the world’s cork production.

Port and Madeira are popular Portuguese wines.