The township of Le Pecq, located in a loop of the river just west of central Paris, is one of only three cities (with Paris and Rouen) to be built on both sides of the river. We got on the boat here rather than in central Paris because of high water, but we stopped here coming upstream today because it is a great jumping off spot for Versailles and Malmaison.

We spent the morning visiting the elegant, 22-room country house of Napoleon’s first wife and the love of his life, Josephine, real name Rose. She purchased Chateau Malmaison in 1799 and lived here until her death in 1814. Our guide was fabulous and told us about the improbable meeting of Josephine and Napoleon. She was born to plantation owners in the West Indies, married, broke, the mother of two, just missed having her head chopped of in a guillotine, had awful teeth (from chewing sugar cane as a kid), was not known as a beauty, and was six years older than Napoleon. Her charm, intelligence, and devotion to Napoleon must have been overpowering, because he became smitten with and devoted to her. His prospects when they met were not all that bright either. Born in Corsica, educated at the military school in Paris, and broke, he was nonetheless a bit of a rising star.

Our guide walked us room to room and easily kept our attention as she wove together all the threads of Josephine’s story. She bought the rundown country house when Napoleon was off on some maneuver…much to his surprise and disapproval. At great expense she refurbished and decorated the house elaborately and expanded it when neighboring acreage became available. She added a small zoo, art gallery, and green house; threw elaborate parties, dinners, and entertainments; and expanded the formal gardens with local as well as imported flowers and plants. It makes for quite a tale when you throw in her friendship with the Russian czar, a pet orangutan that ate at the table (with utensils and a napkin) with her and her guests, her admiration of all things favored by Marie Antoinette, her keen business sense, black swans, failure to produce an heir, the ownership of what is now the official residence of the president of France on the Champs-Élysées in Paris, and her love of all things Greek, Roman, and Egyptian.

Having been a couple of times (lucky us!) before, we passed on Versailles and spent the afternoon enjoying the lazy trip upriver, taking advantage of a special French tea, and packing for tomorrow’s transfer. As we approached the middle of Paris we were staring right at a miniature Statue of Liberty, a gift from the American community in Paris in appreciation for the much larger version France had gifted us. The statues were intentionally situated so that they are facing one another, a nice touch. The Eiffel Tower was visible in the mist beyond. Could be the best picture of the trip.

Tonight we saw Paris in all its illuminated glory as we drifted along the river after dark. Our open-air vessel, though chilly, misty, and wet, allowed for great views of the city’s famous monuments. Our well timed arrival at the Eiffel Tower had us there moments before its twinkle lights started dancing over the iconic structure. Notre Dame looked regal. We went under the Pont de la Concord which is made of stone from the Bastille and Pont de l’Alma, under which is the tunnel where Princess Diana was killed. We passed the home of Josephine’s son which is now the German embassy and the home of possibly the most famous musketeer (thank you Hollywood), d’Artagnan.

One more great day under our belts.